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MoGuWi and Kia Kaha's long haul home

An overland adventure from the Uk to NZ

20,462 km (12,715 miles) over 587 days from July 26, 2011 to March 3, 2013

Topic: Bicycle Touring  
Categories: Other languages, Tour diaries, Winter touring, Equipment lists, Expedition touring bikes, Hungarian, Extended, First tour, World, Alps, Danube Bike Trail
Locales: Europe, Belgium, France, Italy, Hungary, Netherlands, Turkey, United Kingdom, Middle East, Iran, Asia, Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan, Uzbekistan, Turkmenistan, Tajikistan, Vietnam, Cambodia, India, Vatican City, Monaco, Laos, Burma (Myanmar), Sri Lanka, Oceania, New Zealand
Years: 2011, 2012, 2013
Keywords: Uk, France, Italy, Balkins, Hungary, Turkey, Central Asia, Russia , Mongolia, China, SE Asia, Maylasia, Australia, NZ ,Surly Long Haul Trucker, 12-18 months.


Copyright © 2011-2014 By Sergai Davis - (contact)

Status: Completed Apr 2013Featured Journal #490
Last update: Sunday April 21, 2013 01:00 (US/Pacific) (edited Thu 9 May 2013 04:16 (US/Pacific))
251,072 hits since March 29, 2011 (hitcounts updated nightly)
2,249 pics

Click here to see this page

Bridge we slept next to on the way to Bijar

Table of Contents

What was it that I said to make her agree?: or " Now this is what I call a Holiday, Honey"

Our intended route from Uk to NZ: To be confirmed on Route

Introducing Kia Kaha and MoGuWi: Our bikes and what we have done to them

Equipment List: Clothing

Equipment List: Sleeping and Camping

Equipment List: Kitchen

Equipment List: Tools, Spare Parts

Equipment List: Electronic Gear

Equipment reviews: Ice Breaker cadence 3/4 Pants

Equipment reviews: ESGE kick Stands

Finishing work, and other stuff...: After this we will need a holiday

Leaving New Zealand: .......but only just making it to KL

Visa Information , updated as we get them, includes GPS Cords: Iran, Tajikistan, Uzbeckistan, Kyrgzstan , Iran visa extension, India , Sri Lanka, Myanmar,

Bike Maintenance and Modification's: Zen and the art of Bicycle maintenance


Stansted to Langley / Windsor: First km's in the UK

Langley to Aldershot: a quick day to see mum

Aldershot to Brighton, via Limeburner’s Inn: First rainy days ride in England

Brighton /Hove to New Forest: Staying with Uncle Graham and Aunty Jan...

Hove to New Forest II: Travelling with Mr headwind

Brockenhurst to Stonehenge: Best day so far

Stonehenge to Marlborough: Lessons in navigation

Malborough to Bath: Following the Kennet Avon Canal

Bath to Cardiff: Rail Trails and Bridges

Cardiff to Pencelli: Another day of jackets on , jackets off

Pencelli to Brecon Beacons and back: One off the Bucket List

Pencelli to Erwood: Maybe the walk was not such a great idea....

Trericket to Wem: Where the rednecks go for a holiday

Wem to Castle Howard: Train to York and a short ride to finish

Castle Howard to Pocklington: Brides head revisited

Pocklington to Hull: Last day in England and first 1000kms

Summary of our time in the UK: Uk by the numbers


Rotterdam to Katwijh: I Love Holland

Katwijk to Heemskerek: Chicken Wrapped in Bacon!!!!

Heemskerek to Strone: Invasion of the Slugs

Stroe to Wokem: Tailwind at last, but only for 36kms

Wokem to De Rijt: Insane winds again.......

De Rijt to Amsterdam, via Edam: Promises of a dry room and roof

Amsterdam to Zeist: Polecamping , try it, its almost like at home

Pole camping Site to Doornenburg: Two days of sun, Its a record

Doornenburg to Well: What Sunny weather?.

Well to Stevensweert: More bad weather, but great camp site

Stevensweert to Masstrict: More bad weather, but great camp site

Masstrict: Day off, sort of

Holland by the numbers: Stats, costs and Map


Masstrict to Braives: Leaving Holland, for Belgium's headwinds

Bravies to Loonleek: A Study in road surfaces

Loonleek to Binche: Seeing a lion on the way to the border

Belgium by the numbers: Stats, costs and Map


Binche to Maubeuge: The weather jinx

Maubeuge to Le Quesnoy: First Puncture

Le Quesnoy to Cambrai: Getting blown off the road

Cambrai to Arras: A GPS is a aid to navigation,,,,only............

Arras to Thiepval: Short day to Thiepval

Thirpval to Amines: A great ride down the Somme

Amines to Bresles: Fast time on the D Roads

Besles to St Lue d'escort: Riding through a small national park , 2nd flat tyre!!!!

St Lue d'escort to Paris: Paris for lunchtime

Paris: Three days in the City of Light

Paris to Versaillies: Lazy day with a 16% gradent

Versailles to Marcilly: Stunning day for a ride.....finaly

Marcilly to Vimoutiers: AB's and a Tiger

Vimountiers to Falaise: Falaise gap

Falaise to Luc-se-Mer: Sword Beach

Luc -se-Mar to Port-en-Besin: Oh you got to love that sun..

Port-en-Besin (Omaha Beach) to Carentan: Omaha memorial and a hair dryer

Carentan to Montmartin su mer: Our first French Rail Trail

Montmartin-su-mer to Courtils, Mount St Michel: 3000kms in the bag..

Camping St Michel to Camping St Michel: Not a rest day to be had

St Mont Michel to Ambrieres-les-Vallies: Following the rail trail to Domfront

Ambrieres-les-Vallies to Chateau Gontier: Rail trails and Tow Paths

Chateau Gontier to Angers: Last of the Tow path to Angers

Angers to Saumur: First day on the Eurovelo 6, and it rains!!!

Saumur to Tours: Reactors

Tours to Mont pres Chambord: Aquariums and Wineries

Mont Pres Chambord to Orleans: Visiting a Chateau

Orleans: Two days off the bikes

Orleans to Gien: Great days ride

Gien to Bouiges: Starting to feel the cold

Bourges to St Bonnet torn Nsies: Attached by wild mice!!!!!

St Bonnet Torn Nsies to Montaigut en Combraille: First of 1000mtr climbs

Trouve Mini Camping: Rest Day and a Birthday

Trouve to St Bonnet – Pres- Orcival: Penance for having enjoyed two days off..

St Bonne- pres- Orcival to Stealth Camp, vic Compains….: A surprise find in the Mist…

Stealth Camp to St Flour: A day of two Col’s

St Flour to Chaudes - Aigues: A mixed bag…….. of F*$#@n soul destroying gradient’s.

Chaudes-Aigues to Gites” Rajals”, vic Col de Bonnecombe 1350mtrs: Same Col twice in one day!!!

Gites Rajals to Florac: Yes, we are the RWC Champions.............

Florac to Aduzes: Head into the clouds

Aduzes to Avignon: The hurt sinks in!!

Avignon to Camping Le Fernie , Nice: Shortest day yet

France by the numbers: The facts as we spent them,


Nice to San Remo: Mixing it with the rich and Famous

San Remo to Berezzi Borgio: O for awsum

Berezzi Borgio to Genova: Race against the weather

Genova to Rome: All rails lead to Rome

Rome to Gardoli (Stealth Camp): Getting back on the bikes

Stealth camp to Castlie Del Piano: Oh we get chased and start some hills

Castle Del Piano to Cascaino: Nearly Broken by the Hills

Casciano to Castalina in Chianti (stealth Camp): Best road in Italy, P222

Stealth Camp to Florence /Firenze: 5000kms so far

Florence, Italy: Three days in Florence

Florence to Pana (stealth Camp): A day of uphills and cold tempertures

Pana (Stealth Camp ) to Bologna: Two passes, two punctures and a crash

Bologna to Ferrara: Freezing fog all day

Ferrara City: The Capital of cycling in Italy?.

Ferrara to Camping Alba: Following the Po

Camping Alba to Padova: Last day on the bikes in Italy

Venice and Padova: Last minute sight seeing

Italy by the numbers: Map, numbers and what it cost.

Hungary: 2 months with the family


Istanbul: Couple of days in the city

Istanbul to Iznik: Sea, snow and Donar kebabs

Iznik to Pamukova: Turkish Hospitality

Pamakova to Tarakli: World Famous in Tarakli

Tarakli to Goynuk: Cycling on a snow road

Goynuk to Nallihan: Our first hard day in Turkey

Nalihan to Beypazari: Sometimes doing a chore gets you a reward!

Beypazrai to Ayas: Memories of Home

Ayas to Ankara: Blinded by the blizzards

Ankara: 3 visa's in 2 days

Ankara to Bala: Leaving the big smoke

Bala to Kaman: A long cold day ......

Kaman to Kirsehir: A beautiful day for a ride....

Kisehir to Hacibektas: Dog defence and rubbish

Hacibektas to Nivsehir: It takes all sorts of weather.

Nevishir to Goreme: A sort of short day and 4 days off...

Goreme to Kayseri: Bit of a cold start to the day

Kayseri to Pinarbasi: A long days ride in the winter

Pinarbasi to Tatvan: Submitting to the Bus

Tatvan to Baskale: Seeing the effects of the earthquake in Van

Baskale to Yuksekova: Back on the bikes

Yuksekova to Iran Border: Leaving Turkey

Turkey by the numbers


Serou to Orumiyeh: Land of the Ayatolas

Orumiyeh to South of Orumiyeh on the lake shore (somewhere): Trying to make some headway

15 km further down the road ……. Orumiyeh to Mahabad: Still trying..................

Camp beside Lake Orumiyeh to Mahabad: First example of Iranian kindness

Rest day in Mahabad: Shopping Iran style

Mahabad to Miyandoab: An unexpected detour

Miyandoab: Rest day

Miyandoab to Shahin Dezh

Shanin Dezh to Takab

Takab to near Bijar (about 20 km)

Near Bijar to Esfahan: Last day in the cold............

Esfahan: Days off in Esfahan

Esfahan to Shiraz: Shiraz visa run

Shiraz to Zarqan: How to get a visa in Shiraz and get arrested in one day.

Zarqan to Persepolis: Staying with the Shah

Persepolis to near Sa’adatShar: More ancient sites and some pine forest

Near Sa’datShar to South of Haji Dad: Putting in a decent day

South of Haji Dad to about 20 km south of Mehr Dasht: Off the beaten track

About 20 km south of Mehr Dasht to Abarkuh: The sort of ride we dream of......

Abarkuh to 5 km north of Deh Shir: Two corners

5 km North of DehSir to Yazd: Stunt drivers and a sort of Downhill

Days off in Yazd: Fruit Beer, Pistachios and Ice Cream

Yazd to near Kharanaq (about 20 km): Tackling the desert

Near Kharanaq to about 35 km from Saghand: A bit of a tail wind.........

To Saghand: Free nights accomadation

Saghand to Robat-e Posht Badam: Broken shifter and bread from the gods

Robat-e Posht Badam to camp 76 km out of Tabas: Camels, crashes and a tail wind.

to Tabas: Head winds are a pain

Camping 27 km out of Tabas: Diplomats and French cars

Camping about 15 km out of Deh Mohammad: Trucks Trucks and more head winds

Camping between Eshqabad and Tappeh Taq (40 km from Tappeh Taq): We hate head winds....

40 kms from Tappeh Taq to Anabad: Big day finally

Anabat to Kashmar: 8000kms done..

Kashmar to about 15 km from Rivash: Late lunch and a nasty grind

15 km out of Rivash to about 24 km from Neyshabur: Long day , long hills and a stunning run down through another gorge..

24 km from Neyshabur to Bindaloo (New Town): Cops cause cycling chaos

Bindaloo to Mashhad: Last day to Mashad

Mashad: Rest, repairs, recuperate, recharge, refocus and ice cream

Mashhad to Abravan: Sad to leave but happy to go..

Abravan to about 6 km out of Marzdaran: Taking it easy

6 km out of Mazdaran to about 40 km to Sharaks: ANZAC DAY

To Sharaks: Final day in Iran.

Iran by the numbers: Inshalla and all good things....

Turkmenistan: The Turkmenistan Time Trial

Sarakhs to 10kms before Hanhowuz: The road that time, Turkmenistan, the minister of transport and the local repair crew,,,, forgot….!!!!

Hanhowuz to Taze Zahnet: Knocking back some km's

Taze Zahnet to 5 kms past Repetek: Across the Garagum Desert

5 kms past Repetek – Farap border: Last day in Turkmeneistan

Turkmenistan by the numbers

Turkmenistan Border to Bukhara: First day in a new country


Bukhara – Rest days: Time out to repair , reweld and relax

Buhkara to stealth camp: First camp with other cycists

Camping about 45 km out of Quarshi: Hard day of headwinds, heat and boring landscape

45km from Quarshi to about 3 kms from Chim: Taking a quiet back road?.

3 kms from Chin to Shakhrisabz: A speedy morning

Shakhrisabz – rest day: Great little town to chill in

Shakhrisabz – Samarkand: The not so golden road to Samarkand

Samarkand: A beautiful city

Samarkand to Jiazzax: Tailwinds, punctures and a long day

Jiazzax to Old Restarunt 98 km from Tashkent: Hot day on the road

To Taskhent: Fast day to Tashkent

Taskhent – visa/rest days: Bazars, Beers and cycle repairs

Taskhent to Chanoq: Headache, Buses and good roads.

Uzbeckistan by the numbers: How much a 2.5 ltr of beer costs and other stuff


5km from Tajikistan border to camp 25km from Istaravshan: First day in Tajikistan

25 km before Istaravshan to 1900mtrs ASL / 186km from Dushanbe: A rather long hill to climb and 10,000kms in the bag.

1900mtrs ASL / 186km from Dushanbe to Ajni through Sahriston Pass: Still going up......

Ajni to Iskanderkul Lake– rest days: Hard road with lots of rewards

Iskander Kol to 5 kms from the Anzob Tunnel: Ups and downs

5 kms from Anzob Tunnel – Dushanbe: A Construction and Health and Safety nightmare

Dushanbe to Kulob: 5 days in this page

Kulob to Khorog: 11 to 17th June

Khorog to Murgahb: Our ride up into the Pamir begins

Tajikistan,: Facts and figures


Murghab to Osh: The second part of the Pamirs

Rest Days in OSH: Sleeping is hard without A/C

Osh – about 10 kms from Jalal-Abad: Oh its hard work cycling in the heat!!!!!!

About 10 kms from Jalal-Abad to 88 km from Karakul (Nayan River): The heat gets to us...

To Karakol: Its the Gardener who wants a bribe?..

Karakol to 29 kms from Toktogul: Don't eat food cooked by 7 year olds!!!

29 kms from Toktogul – about 23 kms from Ala-Bel Pass: A nice start to a long uphill

About 23 kms from Ala-Bel Pass – about 11 kms from Tao-Assu Tunnel: Some days even hill climbs suck!!!

about 11 kms from Tao-Assu Tunnel – about 34 km from Bishkek: A slight typo on the map!!!!!!

Outside Bishkek to Sakura Guesthouse.: Bishkek at last

Rest days in Bishkek: Planning the next leg of our tour!!

Kyrgistan: Numbers, days, maps etc


Bishkek to New dehli: A change is as good as break....

Varanasi: India's most Holy city?...........

Agra and Jaiphur: The Train, The Taj and A Bus

Jaisalmer: ....into the Thar Desert!...

Johdpur: Now thats a fort!!!

Delhi: Done and dusted

Mumbai to Harmi: Ferries,Monsoons and endless ups and downs.

Harmi to Vengurla: Mumbai to Goa part 2

Vengurla to Arambol: Finally we make it to Goa.....

Arambol to Anjuna: Stuck at the beach

Anjuna to Panjim: Cycling in the rain

Panjim to Agonda: Finally a quite empty beach

Agonda to Madgon – train to Kozhikode (Calicut): Back the way we came for the train

Kozhikode – Chaddally beach: A big day after a sleepless night...

Chaddally beach to Fort Cochin: A very pleasant surprise..

Fort Cochin to Alappuzha: Rough roads lead to quite ride....

Alapuzzha to Varkala beach: NH47/17 "The highway we hoped never to have to ride on again "

Varkala: Rest Days

Varkala – Thirvanduram: Last day in India

India by the numbers: well sort of,

Sri Lanka

Negombo – Sri Lanka: Hanging at Silver Sands

Negombo to Pinnawalla (Elephant Sanctuary): Up into the hills

Pinnawalla to Kandy: Concentration camp for Elephants

Kandy to Arugam: Hills and spills and animal's.........

Arugam Bay to Mirissa Beach: Elephant encounters and a couple of beaches

Mirissa to Negombo: Final days in Sri Lanka

Sri Lanka by the numbers: Curry and rice and a couple of games of cricket

Bangkok: Two days to grab what we need


Yangoon: Not such a soft landing for the bikes...

Yangon to Nyaungshwe: A bumpy bus ride to Inle.......

Nyaungshwe: Couple of days at the lake

Inle Lake to Pindaya: A must do for anyone cycling in Burma...

Pindaya to Ywangan: Rough roads for the whole day hurt...

Ywangan to Kyauske: Downhill to the plains

Kyaukse to Mandalay: Back to the mad traffic of a city

Mandalay: A few days in the city and 15,000kms

Mandalay to Bagan: Boat Bagan and medicine

Yangoon again: Lessons in how to rebuild a hub

Burma by the numbers: Dollars and Kyats....


Vientanie to Karsi: Heading towards the Laotian hills

Karsi to Phosavan: Getting into it......looking for Jars!!!!

Phosavan to Thakhok: Riding a road less traveled and finally 10,000 Miles.....

Thakot to Pakse: SSDD on route 13

Paske: Oats oats glorious oats......

Paske to Champasak: A broken spoke, a flat and a disappointing temple

Campasak to 137km peg Route 13: Last full day in Laos

Laos by the numbers: BBQ Chicken and sticky rice stats


137km Peg Laos, to Stung Treng, Cambodia: Border issues and welcome to Cambodia

Stung Treng to Kratie: A rather long day.......

Kratie to Stung Trong: The Mekong Trail and a local GH

Stung Trong to Kampong Cham: Riding to a decent break....

Kampong Cham: Rest days

Cambodia Part 1 Map


Kampong Cham to Tay Ninh: Out of Cambodia to Vietnam

Tay Ninh to Ho Chei Minh: Riding into Saigon

Saigon to Hanoi: Two weeks off the bikes with my Mum..

Saigon to Tan Thanh: Back on the bikes

Tan thanh to Chan Doc: Last full day in Vietnam

Vietnam by the numbers: Just how may Ice coffees we consumed

Cambodia Part 2

Chau Doc to Takeo: Crossing back into Cambodia

Takeo to Phnom Phen: Legs giving us grief

Rest Days in Phenom Phen: Shocked into silence

Phenom Phen to Seim Reap: Rock around the Wat

Siem Reap to Siphoson: The best road in Cambodia,,,,long flat and a verge,,,,

Cambodia stats and map


Into Thailand: What happens when you don't have enough salt.....

Near Sa Kaeo – Phanom Sarakham: Hot, straight and boring

Phanom Sarakham – Bangkok: Made it!!!!!!!

Rest Days in Bangkok: Getting ready to head to NZ......

Thailand by the numbers: or what roads not to ride?....

New Zealand: Home again

Christchurch: Finally get to see the Family and the rebuild of Christchurch

Christchurch to Rakaia Gorge: 1st day on the road in NZ

Rakaia river to Geraldine: Enjoying the almost back roads

Geraldine to Raincliff: Camping with the Scouts

Raincliff to somewhere on the Hakataramea Pass Road (ok, off the actual new road but close enough): How to get lost in NZ

Hakataramera Pass Road – By Wright Cross Bridge: Head winds suck...

Wright Cross Bridge – Dansey Pass Recreational Park (Doc): The Dansey Pass is tough...

Danseys Park to Rainfurly: Short day into Ranfurly

Ranfurly to Alexandera: Two days of the Otago Rail Trail

Alexandra to 6km North of Beaumont (Millennium Trail): Hard work getting out of Alexandra

Millennium trail to Balclutha: Fog, bird song and Vintage cars

Balclutha to Papatowai: Welcome to the Catlins

Papatowai to Fortrose: One of the best spots to spend the evening

Fortrose to Invercargill, via Bluff: 19,000 kms yes!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Invercargill to Clifden: Oh a cold snap!!!

Clifden to Lake Manapouri: A spot of fine weather helps

Lake Manapouri – Henry Creek DOC campsite: Broken rod!!!!!

Henry Creek campsite – 6 kms from Mavora Lakes turn off (DOC trail track): The perfect tail wind becomes a headwind nightmare

6 kms from Mavora Lakes turn off – Von River junction: The Milford track of cycling!!!

Von river Junction to Queenstown: Another stunner...

Queenstown to Arrowtown: Wet and Dry

Arrowtown – Cromwell: Through the Gorge

Cromwell to Boundary Creek reserve, Lake Wanaka.: Riding back across Central Otago

Boundary Creek to Haast: Up and down, soaked with the wonder and the rain...

Haast - Rest Day: Wilderness Back packers, excellent place to hang out..

Haast to Paringa Lake, DOC campsite: Enjoying the best of the Westcoast

Lake Paringa – Fox Glacier: Great road into Fox

Fox Glacier – Franz Joseph: Two steep saddles and a crest

Franz Joseph to Murchison: Grabbing kms on a Bus

Murchison to Kowhai Flats, Wairau River: Saddle fixed, insect hell, and a great ride

Kowhai Flats – Spring Creek: Finally I propose and we complete 20,000kms

Marlbourgh Wine trail…: bit of a disappointment really

Spring Creek to Wellington: The gift of friendship and home comforts

Wellington to Masterton: In the lands of the Garden's

Masterton - Pongaroa: Route 52, the quiet road to Napier

Pongaroa to Porangahau: Adrienn's rim splits....and some Laos like hills...

Porangahau to Waipawa: Looking for a Rim....

Outside Waipukarau to Napier.: The Last Day..........

New Zealand: Where supermarkets have a selection and we can read the labels.....

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