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Hugh and Pauline in South America


A trip through Peru, Bolivia, Argentina and Chile

9,264 km (5,756 miles) over 190 days from August 21, 2010 to February 26, 2011

Topic: Bicycle Touring  
Categories: Tour diaries, Custom bikes, Equipment lists, Expedition touring bikes, 6-12 months
Locales: South America, Argentina, Peru, Bolivia, Chile
Years: 2010, 2011

Permalink: http://www.crazyguyonabike.com/doc/HandPinSA

Copyright © 2010-2014 By Pauline Symonds - (contact)

Status: Completed Jul 2011Featured Journal #605
Last update: Tuesday July 5, 2011 12:47 (US/Pacific) (edited Thu 20 Sep 2012 07:50 (US/Pacific))
294,736 hits since July 19, 2010 (hitcounts updated nightly)
1,232 pics


Table of Contents

Preamble

      What comes before the trip of a lifetime

      How Rough can the Roughstuffs go?: A test ride up Glen Tilt and down Glen Fearnach

      The Bikes

      The Insurance Nightmare

      The Kit: How is this all going to fit on the bikes?

            Camping, Cooking, Repairs, Odds and Ends
            Medical kit: Checked out by the family doctors!
            Bike kit
            Pauline's personal kit: What can I chuck out?
            Hugh's personal kit
            Money and documents

      On the brink of departure: a week in Scotland seeing family and then we are off!

Arriving in South America

      Beers, steaks and bikes in Santiago

      Eureka it´s Arica: It´s time to ride

Off on the bikes: This is where it really all starts

      Stage 1: Arica to Arequipa: Eureka blue skies of Arequipa

            Summary and map: Cycling through an empty barren land
            Day 1: Arica to a wild camp in a desert olive plantation just beyond Tomasiri
            Day 2: Wild camp beyond Tomasiri to Moquegua
            Day 3: Moquegua to desert camp 92 km west of Moquegua
            Day 4: Desert camp to La Joya
            Day 5: La Joya to Arequipa
            Day 6 - 7: Recouping in Arequipa
            What Next?: To Colca canyon and beyond

      Stage 2: Arequipa to Chivay: Into the thin air

            Summary and map
            Day 8: Arequipa to Split Rock Camp - up hill all the way
            Day 9: Split Rock Camp to Mossy stream camp
            Day 10: Mossy Stream Camp to Chivay
            Day 11: Rest Day in Chivay
            Day 12 - In search of Condors: Chivay to Cabanaconde
            Day 13: Return up the Colca

      Stage 3: Chivay to Puno

            Summary and map: 5 days at over 4000m
            Route Details: This may help if you are thinking of cycling this route.
            Day 14: Chivay to Sibayo
            Day 15: Fun with Mario in Sibayo
            Day 16: Sibayo to High Camp (4,300m)
            Day 17: High Camp to Imata
            Day 18: Imata to Santa Lucia
            Day 19 - Frio Gringo: Santa Lucia to Lago Umayo
            Day 20: Lago Umayo to Puno
            Day 21: Rest day in Puno
            Day 22: Another doss day in Puno

      Stage 4: Puno to Copacabana

            Summary and map
            Day 23 - along Lago Titicaca: Puno to Juli
            Day 24 - Into Bolivia: Juli to Copacabana
            Day 25: Rest day in Copacabana
            Day 26 - out into Lago Titicaca: Copacabana to Yampupata
            Day 27 - a walk on the ridge: Isla del Sol
            Day 28: Back to Copacabana
            What next?

      Stage 5: Copacabana to Oruro

            Summary and map: Goodbye to Titicaca and across the Altiplano
            Day 29: Copacabana to Huatajata
            Day 30: Huatajata to El Alto
            Day 31: El Alto to Patacamaya
            Day 32: Patacamaya to Oruro
            Day 33: Preparation for the wild day in Oruro
            What next

      Stage 6: Oruro to San Pedro de Atacama

            Summary and map
            The route: May be useful to other cyclists
            Day 34: Oruro to Poopo
            Day 35: Poopo to Challapata
            Day 36: Challapata to Quillacas
            Day 37: Quillacas to camp beyond Tambillo
            Day 38: Camp beyond Tambillo to Salinas de Garci Mendoza
            Day 39: Salinas to camp on the Salar de Uyuni
            Day 40: Camp on Salar to Camp on Isla Incahuasi
            Day 41: Isla Incahuasi to Puerto Chuvica
            Day 42: Puerto Chuvica to San Juan
            Day 43: San Juan to camp just before San Agustin - 50 km the wrong way!
            Day 44: Camp just before San Agustin to Camp just after San Agustin - pushing through the sand
            Day 45: Camp after San Agustin to Villa Alota
            Day 46: Villa Alota to Mallku Villamar
            Day 47: Mallku Villamar to camp by Salar de Capina
            Day 48: Camp by Salar to Laguna Colorada
            Day 49: Laguna Colorada to High camp
            Day 50: High camp to Polques hot springs
            Day 51: Polques hot springs to Laguna Blanca
            Day 52: Laguna Blanca to San Pedro de Atacama
            Day 53 - 55: Rest days in San Pedro - updating the journal
            How are we doing?: What the high and dry Bolivia did to our bodies
            What next: Chile, Argentina, Chile, Argentina?
            How's the kit doing?

      Stage 7 From the Atacama to the Altiplano to Argentina: San Pedro de Atacama to Santa Maria

            Summary and map
            Day 56: San Pedro de Atacama to Toconao
            Day 57: Toconao to Socaire
            Day 58: Socaire to camp by Laguna Tuyaito
            Day 59: Camp by Laguna Tuyaito to Camp 10 km east of Paso Sico (Argentinian border)
            Day 60: Camp east of Argentinian border to Olacapato
            Day 61: Olacapato to San Antonio de los Cobres
            Day 62: Rest day in San Antonio de los Cobres
            Day 63: San Antonio de los Cobres to Camp in the Toro valley
            Day 64: Camp in the Toro valley to Cerrillos (near Salta)
            Day 65: Cerrillos (near Salta) to Camp in the Quebrada de Cafayate
            Day 66: Camp in the Quebrada de Cafayate to Cafayate
            Day 67: Cafayate to Santa Maria
            Day 68: rest day in Santa Maria

      Stage 8: Santa Maria to Mendoza

            Summary and map: Heat, prickly trees and long straight empty roads
            Day 69: Santa Maria to Punta de Balasto
            Day 70: Punto de Balasto to camp near San Fernando
            Day 71: Camp near San Fernando to camp 40 km beyond Londres
            Day 72: Camp 40 km beyond Londres to Pituil
            Day 73: Pituil to Chilecito
            Day 74: Chilecito to camp over the Cuesta Miranda
            Day 75: Camp over the Cuesta Miranda to Puerta de Talampaya (camping)
            Day 76: Puerta de Talampaya (camping) to Valle de la Luna - the family who took us to the moon
            Day 77: Valle de la Luna to San Agustin del Valle Fertil
            Day 78: San Agustin de Valle Fertil to Mareyes (camp in a back yard)
            Day 79: Mareyes to Caucete
            Day 80: Caucete to Villa Media Agua
            Day 81: Villa Media Agua to Costa de Araujo (via San Jose) - avoiding a busy stretch of R40
            Day 82: Costa de Araujo to Mendoza
            Day 83: riding a bus from Mendoza to Santiago
            Day 84 - 86: beer and bikes in Santiago
            Day 87: Riding a bus from Santiago to Mendoza
            How's the kit doing?
            What next?: Heading for Patagonia

      Stage 9: Mendoza to Pareditas

            Summary and map
            Day 88: Mendoza to Tupungato
            Day 89: Tupungato to Pareditas

      Stage 10: Pareditas to Malargue - Route 101

            Summary and map: Back to the rough stuff out in the wilds
            Day 90: Pareditas to Camp at Arroyo Hondo
            Day 91: Camp at Arroyo Hondo to High Camp 12km beyond La Jaula
            Day 92: Camp 12km beyond La Jaula to El Sosneado
            Day 93: El Sosneado to Malargue
            Day 94: Messing in Malargue

      Stage 11: Malargue to Las Lajas

            First Hundred Day Summary and map
            Day 95: Malargue to Bardas Blancas
            Day 96: Bardas Blancas to Camp by El Zampal
            Day 97: Camp at El Zampal to Barrancas
            Day 98: Barrancas to Camp 20 km east of Chos Malal
            Day 99: Camp 20 km east of Chos Malal to camp by Rio Pichi Neuquen
            Day 100: Camp by Rio Pichi Neuquen to Las Lajas

      Stage 12: Las Lajas to Araucania - land of the araucaria (monkey puzzle tree)

            Summary - from arid lands to the land of plentiful water - and map
            Day 101: Las Lajas to camp 33 km west of Las Lajas on Paso de Pino Hachado
            Day 102: Camp 33 km West of Las Lajas to camp 15 km NE of Lago Alumine
            Day 103: Camp 15 km NE of Lago Alumine to Santa Elvira (Chile)
            Day 104: Santa Elvira to Conguillio Park
            Day 105: Conguillio Park to Melipeuco
            Day 106: Messing in Melipeuco

      Stage 13: Melipeuco to San Martin de Los Andes

            Summary and map: Into the land of the Mapuche
            Day 107: Melipeuco to campsite 4 km south of Cunco
            Day 108: Campsite 4 km south of Cunco to Camp by Lago Caburgua
            Day 109: Camp by Lago Caburgua to Camp 17 km before Curarrehue
            Day 110: Camp 17 km before Curarrehue to Curarrehue
            Day 111: Rained off in Curarrehue
            Day 112: Curarrehue to Campsite at El Salto de la China
            Day 113: Campsite at El Salto de la China to Camp at QuinchoTañi Ruka
            Day 114: Camp at Quincho Tañi Ruka to Coñaripe
            Day 115: Coñaripe to Camp by Lago Neltume
            Day 116: Camp by Lago Neltume to Hua Hum
            Day 117: Hua Hum to San Martin de Los Andes
            Day 118: Chilling out at the Bike Hostel in San Martin de Los Andes - learning to make a good mate

      Stage 14: San Martin de Los Andes (Argentina) to La Carretera Austral (Chile) via Wales (Patagonia)

            Summary and map
            Day 119: San Martin de Los Andes to Campsite on Lago Falkner
            Day 120: Campsite on Lago Falkner to Villa La Angostura
            Day 121: Villa La Angostura to Lago Nahuel Huapi 12 km west of Bariloche
            Day 122: Lago Nahuel Huapi 12 km west of Bariloche to El Foyel
            Day 123: El Foyel to El Bolson
            Day 124: Hippies in El Bolson
            Day 125: El Bolson to Abuelo Daniel
            Day 126: Abuelo Daniel to Lago Futalaufquen
            Day 127: Lago Futalaufquen to Trevelin (Wales)
            Day 128: Trevelin to Futaleufu (Chile)
            Day 129: Futaleufu to wild camp on Largo Yelcho
            Day 130: Wild camp on Largo Yelcho to wild camp near VillaVanguardia

      Stage 15: Carretera Austral

            Summary and map
            Day 131: Wild camp near VillaVanguardia to La Junta
            Day 132: La Junta to Puerto Puyuhuapi
            Day 133: Puyuhuapi to Parque Nacional Quelat
            Day 134: Quelat Parque Camping to Camping El Salmon near Puerto Cisnes
            Day 135: Camping El Salmon near Puerto Cisnes to Villa Amengual
            Day 136: Villa Amengual to Wild Camp beyond Villa Mañihuales
            Day 137: Wild Camp beyond Villa Mañihuales to Coyhaique
            Day 138: Sort out day in Coyhaique
            Day 139: Coyhaique to Laguna Chaguay
            Day 140: Laguna Chaguay to Villa Cerro Castillo
            Day 141: Rodeo weekend in Villa Cerro Castillo
            Day 142: Villa Cerro Castillo to wild camp by Rio Murta
            Day 143: Wild camp by Rio Murta to Puerto Rio Tranquilo
            Day 144: Boating through caves by Puerto Rio Tranquilo
            Day 145: Puerto Rio Tranquilo to Campo Alacaluf - Exploradores Valley
            Day 146: Trip to and from Mirador de Exploradores Glacier from Campo Alacaluf
            Day 147: Day at Campo Alacaluf
            Day 148: Campo Alacaluf to Puerto Rio Tranquilo
            Day 149: Puerto Rio Tranquilo to camp by Rio Baker near Puerto Bertrand
            Day 150: Camp by Rio Baker to Cochrane
            Day 151: Cochrane to Camping refugio Rio Ñadis
            Day 152: Mini trek from Camping refugio Rio Ñadis
            Day 153: Swapping saddles for horseback riding from Camping refugio Rio Ñadis
            Day 154: Camping refugio Rio Ñadis to Tortel
            Day 155: Tortel to Puerto Rio Bravo
            Day 156: Puerto Rio Bravo to wild camp 30 km before Villa O´Higgins
            Day 157: Wild camp before Villa O´Higgins to wild camp between Villa O´Higgins and Lago O´Higgins
            Day 158: Across Lago O´Higgins to Candelario Mancilla
            Day 159: Candelario Mancilla to Lago del Desierto north shore
            Day 160: Lago del Desierto north shore to El Pilar Hosteria under Cerro Fitz Roy
            Day 161: El Pilar to camp by Hotel Rio La Leona
            Day 162: Rio La Leona to El Calafate
            Day 163: El Calafate for shops, bars and restaurants

      Stage 16: El Calafate to Puerto Natales via Torres Del Paine

            Summary and map
            Day 164: Catch up and planning time in El Calafate on Hugh´s birthday
            Day 165: Day trip to Perito Mereno glacier
            Day 166: Preparing for the way ahead
            Day 167: El Calafate to El Cerrito
            Day 168: El Cerrito to Tapi Aike
            Day 169: Tapi Aike to Cerro Castillo
            Day 170: Cerro Castillo to wild camp just east of Laguna Amarga
            Day 171: Laguna Amarga to Campamento Torres
            Day 172: Campamento Torres to Pehoe
            Day 173: Pehoe to Rio Serrano
            Day 174: Rio Serrano to Puerto Natales
            Day 175: Fattening up in Puerto Natales
            Day 176: Puerto Natales - nearly fat enough to ride again

      Stage17: Approaching El Fin del Mundo

            Summary and map
            Day 177: Puerto Natales to Villa Tehuelches
            Day 178: Villa Tehuelches to Punta Arenas
            Day 179: Punta Arenas - celebrating Shackleton
            Day 180: Punta Arenas - meeting Waving Willow off a ship from Antarctica
            Day 181: Punta Arenas to 65 km east of Porvenir
            Day 182: 65 km east of Porvenir to Cameron - in pursuit of penguins
            Day 183: Cameron to Paso Bella Vista - heading for the heart of Tierra del Fuego
            Day 184: Paso Bella Vista to camping John Goodall near Cabo Peñas (Atlantic)
            Day 185: Cabo Peñas to Tolhuin
            Day 186: Tolhuin to Peumayen - 38 km west of Harberton
            Day 187: Peumayen to Estancia Harberton (Rio Varela) - to the "Uttermost Part of the Earth"
            Day 188: Harberton to Rio Lasifashaj
            Day 189: Rio Lasifashaj to Ushuaia

      Epilogue

      Map of the Whole Route

            Images of Ushuaia
            Images from Puerto Natales: Waiting for Navimag
            The Navimag Experience: The perfect way to travel back up north
            Puerto Montt to Valdivia: Put me back on my bike!
            In and around Valdivia

      The Kit and how did it do?


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