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Going South

A ride South from California into Mexico and beyond.

23,839 km (14,813 miles) over 679 days from November 15, 2011 to September 23, 2013

Topic: Bicycle Touring  
Categories: Tour diaries, Extended, Pacific Coast, North to South
Locales: North America, United States, California, Mexico, Central America, Costa Rica, El Salvador, Honduras, Guatemala, Nicaragua, Panama, South America, Colombia, Argentina, Ecuador, Peru, Chile
Years: 2011, 2012, 2013


Copyright © 2011-2014 By Andy Peat - (contact)

Status: Completed Nov 2013Featured Journal #492
Last update: Tuesday December 24, 2013 18:57 (US/Pacific) (edited Sat 18 Oct 2014 20:52 (US/Pacific))
545,955 hits since November 23, 2011 (hitcounts updated nightly)
5,240 pics

Click here to see this page

California to Ushuaia: 661 days and 24,092km

Table of Contents

      Introduction: A bit of the backstory
      Monterey, CA: 11 Days in Monterey.
USA: California - Monterey to Tijuana.: Including map
      Monterey to Pfeifer Big Sur State Park
      Pfeifer Big Sur State Park to Kirk Creek Campground
      Kirk Creek Campground to Hearst San Simeon State Park
      Hearst San Simeon State Park to Pismo Beach
      Pismo Beach to Lompoc
      Lompoc to Goleta
      Goleta to Carpinteria State Beach Park
      Carpinteria State Beach Park to Leo Carrillo State Beach
      Leo Carrillo State Beach to Santa Monica
      A Day off in Santa Monica
      Santa Monica to Newport Beach: Across LA
      Newport Beach to San Clemente
      San Clemente to San Diego
      San Diego: A couple of days off
      San Diego to The Mexican Border
Mexico: Baja California -Tijuana to La Paz: Including map
      Mexican Border to Ensenada: To the Casa Del Ciclistas
      Ensenada to San Vicente: With some very bad traffic
      San Vicente to Colonia Camalu
      Colonia Camalu to El Rosario: Finally, the traffic dies down.
      Day off in El Rosario: Woke up to frost
      El Rosario to Guayaquil: Headwinds and more ice.
      Guayaquil to km 195: More headwinds and some amazing desert
      km 195 to Punta Prieta: The desert continues, the headwind abates
      Punta Prieta to Guerrero Negro
      Guerrero Negro to Vizcaino
      Vizcaino to San Ignacio: A laid back town with a fantastic church and plaza
      San Ignacio to Santa Rosalia: Riding in a group of four.
      Santa Rosalia to Playa El Coyote: Warmshowers stay on a private beach.
      Day off at Playa El Coyote
      Playa El Coyote to El Requesón: Another night beach camping.
      El Requesion to Loreto: Another beautiful town
      Day off in Loreto
      Loreto to Ligui: Camping next to a fisherman's hut.
      Ligui to Ciudad Constitución: Long straight roads and tailwinds.
      Ciudad Constitucion to El Cien: Camping in a churchyard.
      El Cien to La Paz: End of the road in Baja.
      La Paz: Waiting out Christmas
Mexico: Mainland: Including map
      La Paz to Mazatlan: Ferry to the mainland
      Mazatlán to El Rosario: Run into another crazyguyonabiker
      El Rosario to Rosamorada: Room Service?
      Rosamorada to Tepic: Climbing inland
      Day off in Tepic: New Year's Day
      Tepic to near Tequequexpan: Not a very productive day's cycling
      Near Tequequexpan to Ixtalan Del Rio: The first encounter with pre-Hispanic ruins
      Ixtalan Del Rio to Tequila: I didn't realise Tequila was a town
      Tequila to Guadalajara: Riding into another big city.
      Four Days off in Guadalajara: Laid up with a cold.
      Guadalajara to Mezcala: A chance meeting by the side of the road
      Mezcala to Churintzo: A second night in the Palazio Municipal
      Churintzo to San Pedro Puratiro: a swim in a mountain spring
      San Petro Puratiro to Morelia: Another UNESCO World Heritage Site
      Day off in Morelia
      Morelia to Huajumbaro: Climbing into the pine trees.
      Huajumbaro to Macho Del Agua: Back up in to the pines
      Macho Del Agua to Vale De Bravo: Tired legs from yesterday's climbing mean a short day.
      Vale De Bravo to Near Las Junta: Back up to 2850m
      Near Las Junta to Tonatico: A touch of frost
      Toncatino to Tlaltizapan: Pitching the tent in the Plaza Mayor
      Tlaltizapan to Izucar de Matamoros: Backroads through the sugarcane fields
      Izucar De Matamoros: An unscheduled day off
      Izucar De Matamoros to Acatlan: Final push to Oaxaca.
      Acatlán to Huajuapan de Leon: A glass-half-empty day
      Huajuapan del Leon to Asuncion Noch Ixtlan
      Asuncion Noch Ixtlan to Oaxaca: The final day into Oaxaca.
      Oaxaca: A couple of days off
      Bus Journey to Tapachula and Back: Visa run into Guatemala
      Back in Oaxaca: Waiting for Waiyeng
      Mexico City: A spot of sightseeing
      Back to Oaxaca: Waiyeng arrives
      Oaxaca: Spanish Lessons
      Oaxaca: The last few days
      Oaxaca to Ayoquezco de Almada: Let's get this show back on the road
      Ayoquezco de Aldama to Sola de Vega: Meeting some Semana Santa cycling pilgrims
      Sola de Vega to Jucatengo: A tough day for Waiyeng.
      Jucatengo to San Gabriel Mixtpec: Back down into the tropics after three months above 1000m
      San Gabriel Mixtpec to Puerto Escondido: Hitting the beach
      Rest Day in Puerto Escondido: With one tired Waiyeng
      Puerto Escondido to San Augustillo: A fall for Waiyeng
      Day off San Augustillo: Some time by the beach.
      San Augustillo to Bahia de Santa Cruz: Urban camping with the Pilgrims
      Bahia de Santa Cruz to Morro Ayuta: Wrestling with the holiday traffic.
      Morro Ayuta to San Tiago Astata: Cutting our losses and bailing early into a hotel.
      San Tiago Astata to Tehuantepec: Waiyeng discovers she likes wind even less than hills
      Day off in Tehuantepec: Some time for Waiyeng to recover
      Tehuantepec to La Venta: 'La Venta' means 'windy'
      La Venta to Zanatepec: Warmshowers stay
      Day Off in Zanatepec
      Zanatepec to Arriaga: Hot road through the Mangos
      Arriaga to Ocozocoautla: A long day on the Cuota
      Ocozocoautla to Chiapa de Corzo: Attempting to sidestep Tuxtla
      Chiapa de Corzo to San Cristobal de las Casas: Climbing into thunderstorms and hail
      Days Off in San Cristobal
      Tourist Interlude: A side trip to Palenque and Agua Azul (by bus)
      San Cristobal to Teopisca: A half day downhill
      Teopisca to Comitan: Through a valley full of horses
      Five Days Ill in Comitan
      Comitan to Ciudad Cauahtemoc: Descending for the last day in Mexico
      Guest Contribution: Some thoughts from Waiyeng
      Ciudad Cauahtemoc to Colotenango: Climbing into Guatemala
      Colotenango to Huehuetenango: Feeling ill again.
      Huehuetenango to San Francisco El Alto: Cheating a soaking
      San Francisco El Alto to Quetzaltenango: Finishing off yesterday and descending to Xela
      Days off in Quetzaltenango
      Quezaltenango to San Pedro Laguna (Lake Atitlan): Climbing to 3000m before descending into a volcanic lake
      Days off on Lake Atitlan: San Pedro Laguna and Panajachel
      Panajachel to Paztún: Climbing out of the crater
      Paztún to San Andrés Itzapa: To Maya Pedal
      San Andrés Itzapa to Antigua: Visiting San Simon
      Days off in Antigua: Five days with the Gringos
      Antigua to Near Barberena: And back out into the rain.
      Near Barberena to Jalpatagua
El Salvador
      Jalpatagua to Ahuachapan
      Ahuachapan to Juayua: Ruta de las Flores
      Day off in Juayua: A resting and eating interlude
      Juayua to Playa El Zonte: 1100m descent to the coast.
      Playa El Zonte to Playa San Diego.: A short one along the coast.
      Playa San Diego to Usulutan: A night in a love motel
      Usulutan to Santa Rosa de Lima: Guns in the hotel
Honduras: Including map
      Santa Rosa de Lima to San Lorenzo: Waiyeng practices her Mandarin at a Chinese hotel.
      San Lorenzo to Choluteca: One full day in Honduras
Nicaragua: Including map
      Choluteca to Somotillo: A night at a brothel
      Somotillo to Chinandega: Thunderstorms
      Chinandega to León: A beautiful city.
      Two days off in León
      León to Managua: Warmshowers in the capital
      Managua to Granada: and a couple of hours in the centre.
      Days off in Granada
      Granada to Rivas: A night with the Bomberos
      A side trip to Isla Ometepe: A volcanic island on Lake Nicaragua
      Two days on the island: Another snapped chain and a 20km push.
      Playa Santa Domingo to Rivas: back to the Bomberos
Update: A spanner in the works
Costa Rica: including map
      Rivas to Liberia: A long day for Waiyeng
      Day off in Liberia: Doing some admin.
      Liberia to Nicoya: Getting off the Panamerican
      Nicoya to Puentarenas: Missing a plane crash by minutes
      Puntarenas to Jaco: Cruising along the coast and over a river full of crocodiles
      Jaco to Londres: Warmshowers stay at Finca Amanecer
      Day off in Londres: Enjoying the Spice Farm
      Londres to Playa Uvita: And another warmshowers stay
      Day off in Playa Uvita: A day at a National Park
      Playa Uvita to Palmar Norte: Today, it seems, bad luck really does come in threes.
      Palmar Norte to near Rincon: Down the Osa Peninsula
      Near Rincon to Puerto Jiminez: Along the Gulfo Dulce
      Puerto Jiminez to Ciudad Neily: Boat trip back to the mainland.
Panama: Including map
      Ciudad Neily to David: Hard shoulders and lots of rain
      David to Las Lajas: Grinding it out on the Panamerican
      Las Lajas to Soná: Getting off the main road again
      Soná to Santiago
      Santiago to Nata: Back on that shoulder
      Nata to San Carlos
      San Carlos to Panama City: Crossing the Panama Canal
      Days off in Panama City: Waiting for a credit card
      Panama City to Maria Chiquita: From the Pacific to the Atlantic in a day
      Maria Chiquita to Portobelo: The final 20km in Central America
      Days off in Portobelo: Waiting for a boat
      Sailing to the San Blas Islands: Waiyeng's thoughts.
      More Islands in the San Blas: Waiyeng's take again
      One More Island then Deep Water Sailing to Cartgena: By Waiyeng
Colombia - Cartagena to Ipiales: Including map
      Days off in Cartagena: And another broken laptop
      Cartagena to Maria la Baja: Snapped chain for me and a fall for Waiyeng.
      Maria la Baja to Tolu: For one last night on the Caribbean
      Tolú to Cereté: Through some flooding along the coast
      Cerete to Planeta Rica: Through a big town and back to El Troncal
      Planeta Rica to El Jardin: To Rio Cauca
      El Jardin to Puerto Valdavia: Getting hot and steamy
      Puerto Valdavia to Truckstop: Back up into the clouds
      Truckstop to Yarumal: On what should have been a day off.
      Yarumal to Llanos de Cuiva: In the rain and mud at 2800m
      Llanos de Cuiva to Medellin: At last, the descent.
      Medellin & San Antonio de Prado: at the Casa del Ciclistas
      Medellin to Versalles: Some unexpected climbing
      Versalles to La Felisa: Descending 2000m and rejoining the Rio Cauca.
      La Felisa to Manizales: 1000m of climbing through the coffee
      Manizales: An unscheduled day off
      Menizales to Menizales +39: Camping at a hot spring at 3500m
      Menizales +39 to Near Murillo: Up to 4000m, then camping in a school
      Near Murillo to Lerida: and a white knuckle descent
      Lerida to Buenas Aires: and a sandy road through Doima
      Buenas Aires to Natagama: Getting hotter again
      Natagama to Nieva: Through the Tatacoa Desert
      Nieva: One day off turns into two
      Nieva to Iquira: Back on the back roads
      Iquira to La Plata
      La Plata to La Argentina: A short day on the dirt
      La Argentina to Oporapa: Via San Roque and a Franciscan Monastery
      Oporapa to San Augustin: Back to the asphalt.
      Days off in San Augustin: Three days off
      San Augustin to San Juan Villalobos
      San Juan Villalobos to Mocoa: Through the jungle
      Days off in Mocoa: Waiting out a storm
      Mocoa to Sibundoy: A day out on the 'Trampoline of Death'
      Sibundoy to Pasto: More climbing in the clouds to Lago La Cocha
      Days off in Pasto: Catching up with Waiyeng
      Pasto to San Juan
Ecuador - Tulcan to La Balsa: Including map
      San Juan to Tulcán: Via Ipiales and Las Lajas
      Tulcán to El Angel: Via the Páramo and 3700m
      El Angel to Ibarra: 1500m descent into the inferno.
      Ibarra to Otavalo: That's 25km too many down the Panamericana
      Ibarra to Tabacundo: Via Laguna Mojanda
      Tabacundo To Tumbaco: Crossing the Equator
      Tumbaco and Quito: Enjoying the old town and the Casa del Cislistas
      Tumbao to Machachi: Skirting Quito and heading for the hills
      Machachi to Parque Nacional Cotopaxi: Camping beneath the Volcano
      Parque Nacional Cotopaxi to Toacazo: Coasting downhill and on to the Quilotoa Loop
      Toacazo to Sigchos: Text by Waiyeng
      Sigchos to Quilotoa: Arriving at a volcanic crater after dark (by Waiyeng)
      Quilotoa to Zumbahua: Walking the rim of the caldera (Waiyeng)
      Zumbahua to Latacunga: Up to 4000m again, then back to the Bomberos (Waiyeng)
      Latacunga to Baños: Via the backroad...Then waiting for another credit card... and my computer... again.
      Baños to Riobamba: Via the rubble of Volcan Tungurahua
      Riobamba to Lagunas Atillo: Climbing again
      Lagunas Atillo to Macas: 2500m straight down
      Macas to Santiago de Mendez: Along Troncal Amazónica
      Santiago de Mendez to Limón: With some of that rain we've been hearing about.
      Limón to San Juan Bosco: Watching paint peel in Pan de Azúcar
      San Juan Bosco to Gualaquiza: More rain and beautiful jungle
      Gualaquiza to Yantzaza: Camping with the Policia
      Yantzaza to Zamora: A short and soggy one
      Zamora to Loja: Back up into the Andes
      Three days in Loja: Preparing for Peru.
      Loja to Vilcabamba: Amongst the Gringo retirees
      Vilcabamba to Yangana: A night on the convent floor
      Yangana to Palanda: Dirt, hills and roadworks.
      Palanda to Zumba: Sleeping in another convent.
      Zumba to Namballe: Into country number 11.
      Namballe to Nueva Esperanza: Mudbath
      Nueva Esperanza to Tamborapa: Fantastic riding once the mud dried up.
      Tamborapa to Jaén: To the bus station...
      Trujillo: To the original Casa del Ciclistas
      Santiago, Chile: Warmshowers stay with Victor
Argentina - Mendoza and the Lake District: Including map
      Mendoza to Cordón del Plata: Back into the Swing of things
      Cordón del Plata to Pareditas: Via a snooze in the park
      Pareditas to near Arroyo Hondo: A culvert with a view
      Near Arroyo Hondo to Middle-of-Nowhere Camp
      Camp to El Sosneado: Dusty
      El Sosneado to Malargüe: and then a day off
      Malargüe to Bardas Blancas
      Bardas Blancas to Near El Zampal: More desert
      Near El Zampal to Barancas: Crossing into Patagonia
      Barancas to Buta Ranquil: More mental wind.
      Buta Ranquil to Chos Malal
      Chos Malal to Another Culvert: 15 hours under the road
      Another Culvert to El Cholar: Still windy
      El Cholar to Loncopué: Screaming along the dirt again.
      Loncopué to Las Lajas: then bunkering down and waiting out the wind
      Las Lajas to Pino Hachado: More wind, then up into the monkey puzzles
      Pino Hachado to River Camp: Camping among the araucarias
      River Camp to Aluminé: for an afternoon off.
      Aluminé to Pilolíl
      Pilolíl to San Martin de los Andes: The start of the Lake District and the beginning of some bad weather.
      San Martin de los Andes to Lago Villarino: On to La Ruta de los Siete Lagos
      Lago Villarino to Villa Angostura: Cycling with the Argentinians in the pouring rain
      Villa Angostura to Bariloche: Less rain, more wind
      Bariloche: More days out waiting out the weather
      Bariloche to Río Villagas: Freezing cold after a proper soaking
      Rio Villegas to El Bolson: One last day of rain.
      El Bolson: Christmas time
      El Bolson to Cordón de Cholila: The cavalcade heads on
      Cordón de Cholila to Parque National Los Alerces: Lakeside free camping
      Parque National Los Alerces to Coihue Viejo: Stunning National Park
      Coihue Viejo to Trevelín: A Welsh colonial town.
Chile - The Carretera Austral: Including map
      Trevelin to Futeluefú: a bit of a slog.
      Day off in Futeluefú: Hogmanay!!
      Futeluefú to Lago Yelcho: Beach camp
      Lago Yelcho to La Junta: Joining the Carretera Austral
      La Junta to Puyuguapi: Camping by a sea loch
      Puyuguapi to near El Carmen: Climbing into Reserva Nacional Queulat
      Near El Carmen to Villa Mañiguales: and the rain is back.
      Villa Mañiguales: Two days of rain
      Villa Mañiguales to Coyhaique: Via Villa Ortega and the gravel.
      Days off Coihaique: Enjoying the only 'town' on the Carretera Austral
      Coyhaique to near Vista Hermosa: and a costly detour via Balmaceda
      Near Vista Hermosa to near Lago Verde: Waiyeng hits 10,000km!
      Near Lago Verde to Near Rio Murta: The real Carretera Austral
      Near Rio Murta to Puerto Rio Tranquillo: Lakeside again
      Puerto Rio Tranquillo to near Puerto Bertrnd: Another string of lakes.
      Near Puerto Bertrnd to Cochrane: Along Rio Baker
      Cochrane to Corral Camp: Chasing Waiyeng again
      Corral Camp to High Camp: A long, exhausting and beautiful day in the saddle
      High Camp to Villa O'Higgins: ...and the end of the Carretra Austral
      Villa O'Higgins: Day off
      To Candelario Mancilla: By boat, via Glaciar O'Higgins
Argentina - El Chalten to Torres del Paine: Including map
      Candalerio Mancilla to El Chalten: and another boat over Lago del Desierto
      Days off in El Chaltén: Mount Fitz Roy, trekking and chilling
      El Chalten to Parador Luz Divina: 90km in three hours
      Parador Luz Divina to El Calafate: Man, that was tough.
      Days Off El Calafate: Glaciar Perito Moreno - Text by Waiyeng
      El Calafate to El Cerito: Crazy tailwinds and sleeping in a roads depot.
      El Cerito to Tapi Aike: Some beautiful ripio and another roads depot
      Tapi Aike: We're going nowhere in this - Waiyeng
Chile - Torres del Paine and Tierra del Fuego: Including map
      Tapi Aike to Cerro Castillo: Wind and flamingos
      Cerrito Castillo to Puerto Natales: Foregoing the National Park
      Puerto Natales to Morrow Chico: Following la Frontera Loca
      Morrow Chico to Gobernador Philipi: Estancia camping
      Gobernador Philipi to Punta Arenas: The end of mainland Americas
      Punta Arenas to Porvenir: ...and onto Tierra del Fuego!!!
      Porvenir to Bahia Inutil: Sleeping at a penguin colony
      Bahia Inútil to Estacion Russfin: Sleeping in a sheep station - Text by Waiyeng
Argentina - Tierra del Fuego and Ushuaia: Including map
      Estacion Russfin to Paso Rio Bellavista: The final frontera.
      Paso Rio Bellavista to Camping Norte: Our last bit of ripio
      Camping Norte to Tolhuin: Reunion at Panaderia La Union
      Tolhuin to USHUAIA!!!!: Waiyeng's thoughts
      Ushuaia: and moving on
Peru: Jaén to Huamachuco
      Map of North Peru
      Ushuaia to Lima: By plane
      Trujillo: Chilling at the Casa de Ciclistas - Again
      Jaén to Bagua Grande: and another Casa de Ciclistas
      Bagua Grande to Pedro Ruíz: Pushing on up river
      Pedro Ruiz to Chachopoyas: Into a gorge
      Chachopoyas: Colonial hill town
      Chachopoyas to Tingo Viejo: Back down into the valley
      Kuélap: Lots of exercise for a day off
      Tingo Viejo to Leymebamba
      Leymebamba: A trip to the mummy museum
      Leymebamba to Balsas: Up into the clouds then a 60km descent
      Balsas to Celendín: This is why I came back to Peru
      Celendín: Sick day
      Celendín to Encañada: Roadworks in the rain.
      Encañada to Cajamarca: Fields of old ladies
      Cajamarca: another day off
      Cajamarca to San Marcus: More rain
      San Marcus to Cajabamba: Through a hot valley
      Cajabamba to Huamachuco: Arranging another sick day.
      Huamachuco: Sick again, then some rest and sightseeing.
Peru: Huanachuco to Huanuco
Map of Central Peru
      Huamachuco to Cachicadán: Climbing to 4200m then turning onto dirt.
      Cachicadán to Mollepata: More crawling along through rubble
      Mollepata to Pallasca: About 20km of switchbacks
      Pallasca to Chuquicara: Down a canyon full of tunnels (and wind).
      Chuquicara to Huallanca: More creeping along through canyons.
      Huallanca to Caraz: Through Cañon del Pato... wow!
      Caraz: One day off, then another
      Caraz to Huaraz: Callejón de Huaylas
      Huaraz: Meeting up with Jin, then three days off with a stiff neck!
      Huaraz to camp 5km east of Pachacoto: Towards the Parque National... slowly
      Camp to Camp 18km east of Carpa: A long day with a short mileage.
      Camp to Huallanca: Up to 4750m
      Huallanca to Colquillas: Sleeping in a school.
      Colquillas to Huanuco: The descent continues...
Peru: Huanuco to Cuzco: Including map
      Huanuco: A day off in the world's noisiest city
      Huanuco to Junction 64km south of Huanuco: Sleeping in a restaurant
      Junction to Cerro de Pasco: To the world's highest city
      Cerro de Pasco to Junín: South of Lago de Chinchaycocha
      Junín to Jauja: It's all downhill from here.
      Jauja to Huancayo: A morning off
      Huancayo: A few days off
      Huancayo to Izcuchaca: Back down into the heat
      Izcuchaca to Ancos: The road thins down nicely
      Ancos to Huanta: Getting hot and dusty
      Huanta to Ayacucho: then a day off
      Ayacucho to Matará: Sleeping in a school again
      Matará to Ahuayro: 50km of roadworks
      Ahuayro to Uripa: Roadworks and delays
      Uripa to Andahuaylas: ...and back up above 4000m again.
      Andahuaylas to Kishuara: ...then down, then back up again...
      Kishuara to Abancay: ...and then all the way back down.
      Abancay to Curahuasi: Climbing again... slowly.
      Curahuasi to Bambaconga: One more climb
      Bambaconga to Cuzco: To the Navel of the World
      Cuzco: Ten days off
      Machu Picchu: Sightseeing with the rest of them
            A self-indulgence: I do apologise
      Cuzco to Urcos: Down hill and out of town.
      Urcos to Sicuani
      Sicuani to Ayavirí: Along the altiplano...
      Ayavirí to Juliaca: What a dump!
      Juliaca to Puno: The day I nearly died
      Puno: a day off to gather my thoughts * (text added)
      Puno to Juli: Back on the bike
Bolivia: including map
      Juli to Copacabana: Bungling border formalities
      Copacabana to Huarina: Crossing the lake
      Huarina to La Paz: Al caos
      La Paz: Days off in the city
            El Camino del Muerte: A day out on 'The World's Most Dangerous Road'
            Chacaltaya to Zongo: Another extended downhill without the bags
      La Paz to Patacamaya: Out of the hole...
      Patacamaya to Caracollo: ...and into another one
      Caracollo to Oruro: then some more recuperation
      Oruro to Copacabanita: plenty of dust
      Copacabanita to Huachacalla: through some deserted towns
      Huachacalla to Sabaya: Across the first salt flat
      Sabaya to Coipasa: more salt
      Coipasa to Tres Cruzes
      Tres Cruzes to Llica: More sand
      Llica to Isla Pescado: Camping on the island
      Isla Piscado to Isla Incahuasi: In the refugio
      Isla Incahuasi to Colcha 'K': More dust
      Colcha 'K' to San Juan: Another day at 7km an hour
      San Juan: Day off to take stock
      San Juan to Atulcha: Turning around and heading north
      Atulcha to Uyuni: Back across the salt
      Uyuni to Workers' Hut: The start of a four day slog to Tupiza
      Workers' Hut to Atocha: More dunes, corrugations and beautiful views
      Atocha to Flores Palka
      Flores Palka to Tupiza
      Tupiza to Villazón: Back on the asphalt all the way to the Border
Argentina (again): La Quiaca to Mendoza
      Villazón to Abra Pamapa: Back to civilization
      Abra Pampa to Humahuaca: Cold and windy but a beautiful ride
      Humahuaca to Tilcara: A short descent to a pretty town
      Tilcara to Jujuy: Meeting up with a couple of cyclists
      Jujuy to Salta: The pleasant Ruta 9
      Salta: An extended stay
      Salta to Coronel Moldes: Then back to Salta again (with a split rim).
      Coronel Moldes to Alemania: After bussing it back from Salta
      Alemania to Cafayate: Through Cebrada de Cafayate
      Cafayate to Santa Maria
      Santa Maria to Desert Camp: Camping in the desert
      Desert Camp to Hualfin: High desert riding
      Hualfin to Londres: Ripio, a canyon then a massive steak.
      Londres to San Blas: Down the straights
      San Blas to Pituil: then more straights
      Pituil to Chilecito: F-F-F-F-F-Freezing!
      Chilecito to Questa Miranda
      Cuesta Miranda to Pagancillo: Over the last pass
      Pagancillo to Parke National Talampaya: More desert and howling winds
      Desert Camp to Villa San Augustín de Valle Fértil: From one national park to another
      San Augustine del Valle Fertíl to Marayes: Hot and windy
      Marayes to Caucete: Difunta Correa and a bike path
      Caucete to Media Agua: Bailing early for a shower and a snooze
      Media Agua to Jocoli: Saving the best 'till last
      Jocoli to Mendoza: The final day

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