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Hurley/Highline Circle Tour


From Pemberton BC north up the Hurley FSR, down Carpenter Lake, up Mission Mtn, over the Highline to Darcy, and back to Pemberton

223 km (139 miles) over 4 days from June 14, 2010 to June 17, 2010

Topic: Bicycle Touring  
Categories: Expedition touring bikes, MTB, Offroad
Locales: North America, Canada, British Columbia, Pemberton, Lillooet
Year: 2010
Keywords: British Columbia, alternative route to Lillooet

Permalink: http://www.crazyguyonabike.com/doc/7241

Copyright © 2010-2012 By Anna Helmer - (contact)

Status: Completed Jun 2010
Last updated: Wednesday June 30, 2010 19:02 UTC -08:00
677 hits since June 29, 2010 (hitcounts updated nightly)
6 pics


Table of Contents

Tackling the circle route outside the front door
Helmer's Farm to Gun Creek Campsite over the Hurley Road to just past the town of Gold Bridge
Gun Creek Camp to Carpenter Lake Rec site the hills are small
Carpenter Lake Rec Site to The Red Barn Campsite at Darcy one helluva day
Darcy to the Pony Espresso in Pemberton it is not entirely over yet

Tackling the circle route outside the front door

        
I live in Pemberton BC and host Warm Showers riders enroute to and from the coast and interior over the standard Duffy Lake road route. This road is lovely and better than the busy routes to the interior through the Lower Mainland, but it is really getting quite crowded. Other routes to the interior exist and I have been thinking for some time that I should explore them so that I can make recommendations to fellow bike tourers. This Hurley/Highline Cirlce route trip is the first of the research rides.

Plus, what kind of bike tourer never does the circle route right outside her door?

Anyways. I decided to tackle it this spring. I picked a departure date,bought a mountain bike and a BOB trailer, worked right up to the last minute, packed poorly, and hit the road with my mom.

This ride involves a lot of "huffy puffy". Fair warning. Don't think that because my mom (a grandmother and practically a pensioner) can do it, that it couldn't be that bad. You might need a different yardstick. If you don't balk at the thought of shoveling your own garden, you'll be ok. If you would walk the 12km to town because you had a free afternoon and needed milk, then you might be ok. If you believe that a large percentage of athletic achievement is mental, and very little to do with physical preparation, then go for it. This trip required a heavy dose of "stick-with-it-ness", as mom calls it. At all times, I can quite honestly say that the bad parts were completely overshadowed by the good parts. Have faith.

There are bears, but we didn't hang our food, operating on the premise that not too many bike tourers with tents make it up there so they don't know we have food. We didn't treat our water on the premise that BC has some of the best water in the world. We took all our own food on the premise that there are probably no stores in the two little towns we passed by. We were pretty much right about that.


Helmer's Farm to Gun Creek Campsite: over the Hurley Road to just past the town of Gold Bridge

Monday June 14, 2010, 77 km (48 miles) - Total so far: 77 km (48 miles)

        
Mom and I spent Sunday packing up the bikes and trying to decide what to take with us. Mom did not want to be cold and filled her panniers with sweaters, hats, and long johns. I did not want to be hungry, and filled the BOB trailer with food for a week. Neither of us wanted to be cold AND hungry so we didn't leave much behind. I didn't weigh my bike, BOB and rear panniers, but I rather think we over-packed. We tried to get an early start, knowing what lay ahead. We had driven the route a couple of weeks prior so the climb was fairly fresh in mind. I had noted possible camps starting around 50kms from the farm. It is light until at least 9:30pm and I knew we could go at least that far. So at 6:30am we got rolling. A nice 13km spin up to the gravel road. The wildroses, which were to line the side of our entire route, smelt devine in the crisp morning air. The mountain pass we were headed for loomed ahead.

We hit the gravel road that winds along the Lillooet River for about 8km before the Hurley turn-off to the north. We could hear the logging trucks coming from quite far away. We got right off the bikes and stood to the side to let them pass. We did this for 4 logging trucks and 2 big gravel trucks. We were covered in dust. Finally we got to the turn-off and dropped into the granny-gears for the first hill. Luckily the logging trucks were not coming down the Hurley Road or I might have started complaining. 4.5 hours later we got to Branch 12, where we had our lunch and a nap. 2 hours later we were at the height of land. Just to review, that was 6 hours of climbing. No downhill, no flat. All climb. That kind of climbing where direction ceases to be about north, south, east and west, and instead gets boiled down to up. What direction were we headed from 8am when we took the turn-off to the Hurley till 230pm when we reached the top? Up.

While toiling up the hill, off the bike, head down, we found treasures on the road: 5 sockets, 3 large allen wrenches, 3 rifle bullet casings, 3 shotgun shells, 8 rusty nails, 3 bolts, the sheer pin off a trailer, and 3 broken arrows. Very good value, I thought at the time.

Once we came to the height of land, complete with walls of snow lining the road, and began the descent we underwent that transformation from death's door to fresh as daisies. We sailed past all the potential campsites I had noted and there was unspoken agreement that we were headed for the nice campsite mom and dad had stayed at which is 7km past Gold Bridge at Gun Creek.

Fatigue gradually set in, causing us to wonder if perhaps we should camp earlier, but the sight of a few bears (and how many were there that we didn't see at all as we trudged by?) convinced us that staying the night high in the mountains was not such a good idea, especially with all this dang food. Water was not an issue. There are several beautiful mountain streams to fill bottles.

There was one more river valley to climb out of before the camp and that was almost it for us, but we trudged along. You really have to stick with this project. The final decent down into the Bridge River valley was swift and led us to the paved section of road which led us to the BC Hydro Campsite at Gun Creek.

Once there, we cooked dinner and put up the tent. By 9 we were in the tent, and at 9:10, mom fell asleep and didn't move a muscle for 10 hours. Seriously, at times when I woke up and realized that she was in the same position as the last time I looked, I thought maybe I had killed her with this crazy bike ride and I felt relief when I detected the steady rise and fall indicating breathing. Not only that, she had barely managed to get 3 breaths of air into her Thermarest so it was like a thin sheet in terms of cushioning.

I fell asleep thinking about the lovely flat paved day ahead of us along Carpenter Lake.


Gun Creek Camp to Carpenter Lake Rec site: the hills are small

Tuesday June 15, 2010, 49 km (30 miles) - Total so far: 126 km (78 miles)

        
Once we woke up and established that we were, in fact, going to make it on the bikes another day, and bouyed by the knowledge that today we needed only to make it to the end of the lake, we were better able to ignore the presence of rain. Mom herself was much rejuvenated after her 10 hours of immobile heavy slumber and was back in form, meeting some of the interesting fellow campers. A real live prospector, for one. Poor fellow, he had tried to make conversation the night before, but there was no way he was going to get anywhere with us in our state of almost complete exhaustion.

Breakfast was oatmeal and coffee and we were off at what could be considered dawn, in that the light was still dim, even if the clock said 10am. Our ride down Carpenter Lake saw us avoid almost all the rain. We were surrounded by heavy rainclouds, and the pavement clearly showed signs of recent tempest, but only a few drops caressed our sore muscles. Ican't remember when we first noticed the fresh snow up in the mountains. The very mountains we had come through the day before. Thank goodness we pressed on to Gun Creek. I shiver to think of it. Not that mom would have noticed, mind you, sleeping away like that.

The road follows the Bridge River as it becomes Carpenter Lake. The dam that makes Carpenter Lake was completed in the '50s and flooded some beautiful farmland. What an environmental sacrifice was made. We think that there must be fish in the lake today as we saw a few osprey's and bald eagles, but you can't spend too much time on the shores of that lake and not be aware of the fact that a lot of damage was done here.

There are 3 dams in this area, and a significant percentage of BC's energy needs are produced. Many mountain streams empty into the lake and it fills up over the summer. In the summer, when the water is being collected, we buy electricity from elsewhere (coal or natural gas- cheaper to buy in the summer, probably), so that we don't have to use up the water too fast. In the winter, the massive quantity of water is used to make electricity so that we don't have to buy any. So the lake represents stored electricity. The lake gives us power in the winter, which is when we need it most and when supplies from elsewhere are far more expensive. And if we have more water than we need, then we can sell the power it generates for a good price. BC Hydro, a BC government entity, runs the system. The profit goes back to the province.

What I realized while cruising along the shore, was that "sustainability" means that we can no longer make this kind of sacrifice. If we can't meet the rising demand for electricity with the existing infrastructure, then we have to say no. When Obama says "yes, you can" he means "no, you can't". Really. We can't cause this kind of environmental damage in order to light up Las Vegas, or run a TV in every room. Or replace our gas-fuelled cars with electric cars. No we can't. I also realized, that this is OUR damage, to OUR environment. There is no place for private enterprise in a sacrifice of public property. And don't be fooled into thinking that IPP's (Independent Power Projects are power generation facilities on streams and rivers in BC that are built and owned by companies contracted to sell power to BC Hydro) are different. Many are producing the same amount of power as these dams do. Their damage will be similar. Added to that, they are going to cost a bomb, because it costs more for a private company to borrow money than the government, and so when we buy that electricity from them, we are paying for that, plus their profit. So not only do we allow an environmental sacrifice of our own crown land, we have to pay someone for the product. The only thing we get out of it is a few short-lived jobs in construction and (ironically) environmental impact assessment.

By the way, the Gun Creek campsite is operated by our government-owned corporation BC Hydro. It was clean, interesting, well serviced, and in a great location.

I obviously had a little too much time to ponder things as we cruised along the lake. Mostly the road was good, although there is some re-paving work going on during the last 12 km or so and it was that awful loose gravel that covered the road.

At the dam, we turned right and rode right over it, towards Seton Portage and Shelath. Highway 40 to Lillooet (future trip) kept straight and I could see that it was gravel as well, although soon it will be paved properly.

We stayed at a little Provincial Rec Site about 400m from the dam. 2 picnic tables and an outhouse and lots of garbage, which mom picked up. We made a great little fire from driftwood. There was a boatramp down to the lake and we both bathed. Absolutely deserted, and by now quite sunny. We read our books and ate risotto, which took a long time to cook.

I took along an Anne Mustoe book. She was that amazing teacher from Britain who set forth on her first world journey at some advanced age and has never looked back. Wrote great travel books. She passed away in Syria in November from an infection while heading east on her bike. i think she was 76? I had heard about her passing just before we left for this trip, and I decided that I would make this trip in honour of her. A hero of mine. She would never rant and rail against ridiculous government policies allowing more ridiculous dams. She would just matter-of-factly deliver the goods. When I am in my 70's perhaps I will be able to do that too. Until then, write your own journal if you don't want to read what is in mine.


Carpenter Lake Rec Site to The Red Barn Campsite at Darcy: one helluva day

Wednesday June 16, 2010, 51 km (32 miles) - Total so far: 177 km (110 miles)

        
My mom and I went over Mission Mountain and the Highline Road in the same day. We claim this as a record. It took 12 hours. Mission Mountain was not too bad, as we did it very early in the morning while still quite fresh. Less than two hours, almost the entire time off the bike. Rewarded with an extreme downhill run which deposited us at Seton Lake in the bright morning sun.

We hit the Highline Road by 11:30 and Darcy seemed a very short 26km away. We met some nice folks along the road. One guy wanted to pick mom up in his truck. This was fairly early on and we had not weakened too much yet. Had he rocked up later in the day, he might have gotten a rider. I thought it was sort of funny that we were caught so unprepared for these hills. We had driven the route earlier and I had the rest of the route mapped out really well but there was a sort of black hole around the Highline Road in terms of notes. I remember while driving that at one point I thought that there seemed to be a lot of uphill, but I did not pursue that thought further. I imagine that had I done so, I might have decided not to do this ride after all. All for the best I suppose. Still and all, I have never climbed so hard in all my bike trips. "You really get to know your topography" commented mom, as we found ourselves trudging again and again. How true. How true. We saw lots of likely little campsites along the way, but Darcy seemed too close to be quitting. We soldiered on.

Query: Is it better to use front panniers with a BOB trailer? Perhaps a better question would be around the necessity of panniers at all.

When planning this trip, I had always thought that I would go the OTHER way around, leaving the Hurley to last. Then I drove the first 2 km of the Highline Rd from Darcy and my car overheated and I started to question. Easier to bike up the Hurley than up the Highline. Then when I realized that one side of the Mission Mtn. Road is a 14km 14% hill, I firmed it up. I think it was the right decision. The Highline was hell, pretty much, in terms of uphill direction. 7 hours just to cover its 26km. If I was not going over Mission, and just headed to the Highline Pub at Seton Portage for a Highline Burger, I might just go the other direction.

Said burger, demolished at 11am, got us to Darcy. 7 hours of hard going and I still wasn't hungry when we arrived. This is what I have to do to wear off a burger with mushrooms, cheese and bacon.

The Red Barn Campsite at Darcy was a beacon and it lived up to expectations. We had a beer, a shower, a nice read, a look at all the ducks, geese, ducklings and gosslings. Mom again regaining form, met more people.

The sun set and we went to bed, feeling very very proud of ourselves.

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Mom regards the Grader, which had a flat. Difficult to get a sense of grade here. So steep that bike skidded backwards when both brakes (disc) engaged.

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Sunrise over Anderson Lake from our campsite at The Red Barn Campsite. The Highline Road follow the mountains on the left.


Darcy to the Pony Espresso in Pemberton: it is not entirely over yet

Thursday June 17, 2010, 46 km (29 miles) - Total so far: 223 km (139 miles)

        
As it happens, there is a lot of climbing to do to get out of Darcy. Plus, there was a big headwind. I was almost defeated. So close, and yet so far.

For some time, we had been fantasizing over the dinner awaiting us at The Pony, Pemberton's famous eatery and equally importantly, neighbor to The Bike Co, where both mom and I had recently purchased new bikes. We were pretty anxious to report back that we had actually done what we had said we were going to do. We were also feeling quite kindly towards the boys at the shop as we had gotten through this with nary a flat nor any kind of mechanical breakdown. By the way, I would suggest that disc brakes are almost a requirement for this route, due to all the downhill at extreme grades.

This part of the route is rife with history as it is the old goldrush trail and evidence of it is there for people not too tired from biking to discover. Normally, mom is very aware of any type of "old road" and is known to "just have a quick look down there/over here/though this locked gate" in efforts to find old roads and trails. This bike trip really took care of those urges, I must say. She did not stray from the route once, and depending on how tired she was, contented herself with pointing things out from the bike. Luckily, there was lots to discover close at hand between Darcy and Pemberton and once or twice we did go off-road when compelled by rare beauty to do so. Actually, there was plenty to keep us occupied all along the route- an impressive array of wildflowers and birds (more heard than seen).

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outside a Very Old Barn where goldrushers must have been...

Once past Gates Lake, the road takes a downward direction and there is very little climbing of significance after that. We cruised into Mount Currie and lounged at the Gas Bar, reading papers and visiting with Nancy, who rode out with water and treats to meet us.

We had one last alternative route to follow, which we did, notable only because mom ripped off one of her (actually my) panniers trying to squeeze between two rocks blocking our path. I strapped it onto the trailer and we limped into the town of Pemberton. The last stretch of road was slightly horrific in that there were so many cars. With the exception of that stretch from Mt Currie, our entire route was characterized by the smell of wildroses and honeysuckle in full bloom.

And then we were back in the bosum of the family and friends. Wined and dined. We are treated like heroes, and as that is what we feel we are, there is a good feeling indeed in our hearts.

We vow never to even consider doing that route ever again and in recent days have conceded that perhaps we might. I even have recommended it to two Swiss boys staying with us (through Warm Showers). I have not heard back from them yet on how it all went. Their collective age was 40, and our collective age was over 100, so I think they might have been a touch faster than us, but I'll bet they did not do Mission and Highline in one day. Who else is that nuts?

Ok. This just in from the Swiss guys. They loved the Hurley route! Phew. They made it to Gun Creek in a day too, although I think it took them only 8 hours or something. And then another day to Lillooet. And as I say, they loved it, although they did mentioned that there were some hills. So I hereby declare that the Hurley Route to Lillooet is a viable option for cycle tourers. Have at it.


"Hurley/Highline Circle Tour" Copyright © 2010-2012 By Anna Helmer - (contact). All rights reserved.
Website Copyright © 2000-2012 by Neil Gunton Wed 8 Feb 2012 08:54 UTC -08:00 (0.112s)      Top    Link    Report