Topic: Bicycle Touring [change]
About  Help  FAQ  Sitemap  Options  Sponsors  Donate 

  CRAZYGUY T-SHIRTS, HOODIES, MUGS, AND MORE - Crazy Guy on a Bike merchandise at Zazzle. All profits go to support CGOAB.
  BIKEWIPZ individually wrapped cleaning wipes - Clean, polish, protect frame and components. Mobile! Save weight and space on tour
  Sinewave Cycles Dynamo USB Charger
Keep everything charged on the road! Efficient, waterproof, and made in the USA!
  The Appalachian Cycleways Network (ACN) - Back-roads routes through the Appalachian region for independent, experienced touring cyclists

 Home  My  Journals*   Articles*  Forums*  Reviews*  Resources  Classifieds*  Serendipity  Ratings*  Directory  Search  Website
 Contents   Status  Latest  Thumbnails  Slideshow  Author  Guestbook  Printable  Edit  Relation  Search  Bookmark  RSS  Ratings

First Prev Next Last (303 pages) ContentsPage 4Page 8Page 12Page 16Page 20Page 24Page 28Page 32Page 36Page 40Page 44Page 48Page 52Page 56Page 60Page 64Page 68Page 72Page 76Page 80Page 84Page 88Page 92Page 96Page 100Page 104Page 108Page 112Page 116Page 120Page 124Page 128Page 132Page 136Page 140Page 144Page 148Page 152Page 156Page 160Page 164Page 168Page 172Page 176Page 180Page 184Page 188Page 192Page 196Page 200Page 204Page 208Page 212Page 216Page 220Page 224Page 228Page 232Page 236Page 240Page 244Page 248Page 252Page 256Page 260Page 264Page 268Page 272Page 276Page 280Page 284Page 288Page 292Page 296Page 300

Spinning My Wheels In South America

Through the Andes from South to North- The Adventure of a Lifetime

16,371 km (10,172 miles) over 364 days from November 18, 2009 to November 16, 2010

Topic: Bicycle Touring  
Categories: Tour diaries, Custom bikes, Equipment lists, Road bikes, 6-12 months
Locales: South America, Argentina, Chile, Bolivia, Peru, Ecuador, Colombia
Years: 2009, 2010
Keywords: Ortlieb Tubus Schwable MSR Marinoni Bicycle Touring Argentina Chile Bolivia Peru Ecuador Primus Schimschal South America


Copyright © 2009-2014 By Tyson Schimschal - (contact)

Status: Completed Feb 2011Featured Journal #391
Last update: Saturday February 5, 2011 15:01 (US/Pacific) (edited Sat 29 Dec 2012 00:10 (US/Pacific))
224,092 hits since October 15, 2009 (hitcounts updated nightly)
1,815 pics

Click here to see this page

A big line up of bizarre looking buses crammed full of passengers inside and out.

Table of Contents

Introduction: How I became a "crazy guy on a bike"
Equipment List: Revised 11-18-09
The Route: If you don't make plans then you can't break them right?
Preparation: Useful Information for the would be traveler

Argentina: (Buenos Aires Province)

Finally Arriving in Buenos Aires: 3 Days of Playing Tourist in the Big City
The First Day Spinning My Wheels: Buenos Aires to La Plata
A Costly Wrong Turn: La Plata to Magdelena
Back on Track: Magdelena to Veronica
Camping in the Campo: Veronica to Esquina de Crotto
I Finally Made it to the Beach!: Esquina de Crotto to Las Toninas
Time to Rest Up!: Las Toninas at the Hotel Petit
Another Day of Lounging Around on the Beach: Las Toninas and Another Day of Rest
A Day of Extremes: How the Wind Can Be Your Best Friend or Your Worst Enemy: Las Toninas to Sta. Clara del Mar
Arriving in Another Major City- The First Milestone: Sta. Clara del Mar to Mar Del Plata
Taking Advantage of the Sand, Surf and Hot Sun...and the free WIFI: Day off in Mar Del Plata
The Combination of Rain and Laziness Make For a Short Day: Mar Del Plata to Marimar
Leaving the Beach and Returning to the Campo: Miramar to Necochea
Water, the Liquid of Life or Beware of the Blue Moon Hotel: Necochea to Tres Arroyos
Staying Plenty Hydrated Today: Tres Arroyos to the Quechen River
A Perfect Day for a Bicycle Ride: Quechen River to just outside Bahia Blanca
The Last Few Pedal Strokes into Bahia Blanca: 20km's Outside Bahia Blanca to Bahia Blanca
Spending Nearly a Week In Bahia Blanca: The Misadventures of Trying to Catch a Bus to Rio Gallegos
A Quick Tour of Eastern Patagonia: Crazy guy on a bus...!?
Final Stats for the Argentine Pampas

Chile: (Far South- Tierra Del Fuego) Region XII

Phase Two Begins With a Setback: Rio Gallegos, Arg. to Manantiales, Chile
Chile, Gravel, and Bottles of Urine: Manantiales to Cullen

Argentina: (Tierra Del Fuego Province)

It is Getting Crowded Around Here: Cullen, Chile to Rio Grande, Argentina
Riding Through Forests and Staying at an Actual Campground: Rio Grande to Tolhuin
Climbing and Descending my First Mountain Pass to Arrive at the End of the World: Tolhuin to Ushuaia
Giving my Bike and Myself an Early Christmas Present: Day off in Ushuaia
Now it is Time to Back Track: Ushuaia to Camping in the Woods Not Far From Ushuaia
The Scenery for the First Half of the Day was Interesting...: Outside Ushuaia to Past Tolhuin
The Wind Decides to Get Nasty: Past Tolhuin to Rio Grande
Christmas in Rio Grande
When the wind decides to blow, it blows: Rio Grande to San Sebastion

Chile: (South Western portion) Region XII

Gravel+ Head Winds = Good Times: San Sebastion to Not Far From San Sebastion
It Gets Chilly in Chile: Near San Sebastion to Near Povenir
My First Big City in Chile: Near Povenir to Punta Arenas
Running Errands Followed by a Short Ride: Puntas Arenas to 20km's Outside of Puntas Arenas
A Productive New Years Eve: 20km's Outside of Puntas Arenas to Va. Tehuelches
A Great Way to Kick Off the New Year, No Wind!: Va. Tehuelches to Morro Chico
The Wind Returns With a Vengance: Morro Chico to Puerto Natales
It is Confirmed, I'm on the Gringo Trail Now: Rest Day in Puerto Natales
I Discover Just What I Need When I Needed it Most: Puerto Natales to Near Cerro Castillo
Back In Argentina With a Bit Of Tail Wind for a Change: Near Cerro Castillo to Ea. La Correntina

Argetina: (Santa Cruz Province)

The Transformation into the Night Rider: Ea. La Correntina to near El Calafate
The Zombie Reaches El Calafate: Near El Calafate to El Calafate Campground
Making the Journey to See the Perito Moreno Glacier: El Calafate to Los Glaciers National Park
Making the Most of the Detour Off the Main Road: Los Glaciers N.P to Lago Roca
I Caught My First Fish!: Two Days Off at Lago Roca
Time to Start Making Forward Progress Again: Lago Roca to Calafate
The Wind was Mild so I Make the Most of it: El Calafate to Lago Viedma
I'm Nearly Done With the Wind for Awhile: Lago Viedma to El Chalten
Mo' Money Mo' Problems: Days off in El Chalten
Get Me Out of Here!: Trapped in El Chalten for Way Too Long
Finally Leaving El Chalten for the Road Less Traveled: El Chalten to Lago Del Desierto
Final Stats for Southern Patagonia
The Infamous Trek to Lago O'Higgins: Lago Del Desierto to Lago O'Higgins

Chile: (Carretera Austral) Region XI, X

A Day to Enjoy the Remoteness of My Surroundings: The Final Kilometers to Lago O'Higgins
Leaving the Wind for the Wet: Lago O'Higgins to Villa O'Higgins
Racing to Make the Last Ferry: Villa O'Higgins to Punto Yungay
Another Day of Steep Climbs: Punto Yungay to Rio De Los Ninos
More Rain: Rio De Los Ninos to Cochrane
Hanging Out on the Carretera Austral: Day Off In Cochrane
A Day of Steep Climbs and Decents: Cochrane to Puerto Betrand
A Short Day of Recovery: Puerto Betrand to El Maiten
Lots of Lake Views on the Carretera: El Maiten to Bahia Murta
Another Day of Rain: Bahia Murta to near a refugio on ruta 7
Pavement at Last, Pavement at Last,Thank God all Mighty Pavement at Last: Near a refugio on ruta 7 to Cerro Castillo
Riding in the Snow: Cerro Castillo to near Coyhaique
Aimlessly Riding Around Coyhaique: Near Coyhaique to Coyhaique
When Animals Attack and The Laundry Incident: Days off in Coyhaique
On the Road Again, It Feels Good to be on the Road Again: Coyhaique to Villa Manihuales
The End of the Pavement...Or is it?: Villa Manihuales to Lago Torres
The Classic Carretera Returns: Lago Torres to Parque Nacional Queulat
Quitting Early Due to Heavy Rain: Parque Nacional Queulat to Puyuguapi
It 's All About Perspectives: Puyuguapi to La Junta
The Ripio Takes a Turn for the Worse: La Junta to near Puerto Ramirez
Just When I Started to Get Into the Groove in Chile, I Return to Argentina: Near Puerto Ramirez to near Futaleufu
Final Stats for the Carretera Austral

Argentina: (Chubut, Rio Negro, and Neuquen Provinces)

The First Decent Size City in Awhile: Near Futaleufu to Esquel
Heading into Parque Alcerces: Esquel to Lago Futalaufquen
My Big Day Off Plans are Foiled by Rain: Rest Day at Lago Futalaufquen Campground
The Worst Campground Ever: Lago Futalaufquen to Cholila
A Beautiful Day to Arrive in a Beautiful City: Cholila to El Bolson
I Made it as Far as Across Town!: Unplanned day off in El Bolson
A Jewel of a Lake All To Myself: El Bolson to Lago Guillelmo
Sometimes the Best Spots Are Discovered by Accident: Lago Guillelmo to Villa Cathedral
The Infamous Scenic Loop: Villa Cathedral to Petunia
Back in the Steppe for a Few Kilometers: Petunia to Huemel
A Nice Little Village on the Lake: Huemel to Villa La Angostura
My First Long Day in Quite Awhile: Villa La Angostura to San Martin de Los Andes
The Last Big Town and Earthquakes: Days off in San Martin de Los Andes
Tailwinds, Gravel, and Climbing Mountains All in the Same Day: San Martin de Los Andes to Pilolil
Remote Riding, My Favorite Kind: Pilolil to Alumine
Riding in Sand: Alumine to Ruta 23
An Awesome Valley in No Mans Land: Ruta 23 to near Las Lajas
Sick!: near Las Lajas to Loncopue
Vegging Out Watching Movies in English: Day Off in Loncopue
The Perfect Size Town: Loncopue to near Cavihue
Hot Springs!: Near Cavihue to Copahue
Redefining Crazy: Copahue to near Malla Malla

Chile: (Central Chile) Region VIII,VII,VI,V,IV

Chile: It's a Love/Hate Thing: Near Malla Malla to near Ralco.
Final Stats for Northern Patagonia
A Major Contrast: Near Ralco to Santa Barbara
Back to Civilization: Santa Barbara to near Chillan
A Different Style of Riding: Near Chillan to San Javier
It was Supposed to be a Day Off: San Javier to Talca
Playing Hermit: Day Off In Talca
A Bizzare Encounter: Talca to near San Fernando
Getting Off the Freeway, for Sanities Sake!: Near San Fernando to near Rengo
Renewing my Faith in the Human Race: Near Rengo to Rancangua
Entering Metropolis: Rancangua to Santiago
Exploring Santiago by Bike: South Santiago to North Santiago than back to Central Santiago
Hikes, Museums, Art Gallerys, and Relaxing: Days off in Santiago
Stepping Back in Time: Days Off on Easter Island
Back in the Saddle Again!: Santiago to near Tiltil
Crossing the Cordillera De La Costa: Near Tiltil to Quilpue
I'm Getting Spoiled from all the Hospitality: Quilpue to Vina Del Mar
The Coast, Heavy Traffic and Lifestyles of the Rich and Famous: Vina Del Mar to near Zapallar
Reacquainting Myself With Ruta 5: Near Zapallar to Los Molles
Heading Back East: Los Molles to Km 16 of Ruta D85
Back in the Central Valley: Km 16 of Ruta D85 to Reservas Nacional Las Chincillas
I Climb the Same Group of Mountains Again, Twice: Reservas Nacional Las Chincillas to Combarbala
Screwing Around Looking for a Campground That Didn't Exsist: Combarbala to Embalse Cogoti
Busted!: Embalse Cogoti to Monte Patria
Overdosing on Yerba Mate: Day off in Monte Patria
Getting Off the Beaten' Path: Monte Patria to near Pichasca
Riding Through the Hurtado Valley: Near Pichasca to Paso Elqui
At the Base of the Andes: Paso Elqui to Vicuña
The Best Breakfast Ever: Days off in Vicuña
A Great Climb: Vicuña to Juntas Del Torro Chilean Aduana
The Most Amazing Scenery I Have Ever Seen: Juntas Del Torro to La Colorado [Paso Aqua Negra]
Wind Chill: La Colorada to 4,375 meters altitude [Paso Aqua Negra]
Reaching a New High!: Paso Agua Negra to the Argentina Aduana
Final Stats for Central Chile

Argentina (Northern): San Juan, La Roija, Catamarca, Tucuman, Salta, and Jujuy Provinces

The Pros and Cons of Argentina: The Argentina Aduana to San Jose de Jachal
The Dude: Day Off in Jachal
Tailwind!: San Jose de Jachal to Guandacol
A Relatively Flat Day: Guandacol to the Base of a Pass
Red Dirt: The Base of a Pass to Chilecito
Kids on Motorcycles: Day off in Chilecito
Desert Landscapes: Chilecito to near Pitull
Scenery Begins to Improve Again: Pitull to Km 4036 of Ruta 40
A Little Bit of Rain: Km 4036 of Ruta 40 to near La Cienaga
Headwinds and Gravel, Am I Back In Patagonia Again?: La Cienaga to Santa Maria County
Any Old Wind That Blows: Santa Maria County to Amaicha Del Valle
Welcome to the Jungle!: Amaicha Del Valle to near Tafi Del Valle
Finishing the Descent of the Andes: Near Tafi to San Miguel de Tucuman
Expieriencing the True Argentine Culture: Days off in Tucuman
Ruta 9 Will Make Ya Jump Jump: Tucuman to Km 1386 of Ruta 9
Head Winds Make My Head Spin: Km 1386 of Ruta 9 to Rosario de la Frontera
Time to Update the Journal: Days off in Rosario de la Frontera
Keep Rollin' Rollin' Rollin': Rosario de la Frontera to near Lumbreras
Into the Wild: Near Lumbreras to Somewhere on Ruta 48
Muddy Road: Somewhere on Ruta 48 to Salta
All I Want is a Milenasa: Days Off in Salta
Time to Quit Dragging My Feet: Salta to El Carmen
In Good Spirits on my Birthday: El Carmen to Fraile Pintado
Grey Skies and Humidity: Fraile Pintado to near Pichanal
Last City Before the Border: Near Pichanal to San Ramon de la Nueva Oran
This is it!: Oran to Bermejo, Bolivia
Final Stats for Northern Argentina


There is no Supermarket Here!: Days off in Bermejo
Is it Deja Vu?: Bermejo to near Nogalito
The Tunnel of Love: Near Nogalito to near La Mamora
Instigating Change One "Hello" at a Time: Near La Mamora to near Padcaya
Living the High Life: Near Padcaya to Tarija
The Oil Rich East: Day off in Tarija
I Came, I Saw, I Conquered: Tarija to near Iscayachi
The Pay Off: Near Iscayachi to near Las Carreras
Side Show Freak: Near Las Carreras to near Camargo
Finding a Great Spot to Camp: Near Camargo to near Jacahuito
The Follower: Near Jacahuito to near Puca Tambo
The Highest City in the World: Near Puca Tambo to Potosi
Child Labor Laws Unenforced: Days Off in Potosi
What Goes Up Must Come Down....Right?: Potosi to near Belen Pampa
Why Did the Cycle Tourist Cross the Pass? To See What´s on the Otherside: Near Belen Pampa to near Ventilla
The Temperature Continues to Drop: Near Ventilla to near Pazña
Food Hygiene: Near Pazña to Oruro
A Bit of Delay: Days of in Oruro
Back on the Road: Oruro to near Lauchaca
Regional Differences: Near Lauchaca to Villa Loza
The March to the Capital: Villa Loza to La Paz
The Casa: Days Off in La Paz
10,000 Kilometers: La Paz to near Tiahuanacu
The Mysterious Ruins: Near Tiahuanacu to Tiahuanacu
Bienviendos al Peru: Tiahuancu to near Pomato, Peru
Final Stats for Bolivia

Southern Peru

On a Mission: Near Pomata to Puno
Enroute to Ruins: Puno to Pucara
The Plaza Hotel: Pucara to Ayaviri
Leaving the Altiplano: Ayaviri to Sicuani
Blatant Racism: Sicuani to Urcos
A Warm Welcome: Urcos to Cusco
The Navel of the World: Days Off In Cusco
A Perfect Ride: Cusco to Ollantaytambo
The Sacred Valley: Making the Journey to Macchu Picchu
Returning to Normal Peru: Ollantaytambo to Urubamba
Freedom: Urubamba to Abra Hillque
Freezing Hot Descending Climb: Abra Hillque to Curahuasi
Another Day, Another Climb: Curahuasi to Abancay
Why Me?: Day Off in Abancay
Back on Gravel: Abancay to Near Abra Cruzccasa (3,400m)
Tire Trouble: Near Abra Cruzccasa to Andahuaylas (2,900m)
Is This Insanity or Am I Building Character?: Andahuaylas to Near Uripa (4,160m)
Dusty Deja Vu: Near Uripa to Near Orcos (2,200m)
Climbing Pass #4 On Dodgy Tires: Near Orcos to Near Matara (3,900m)
The Road Goes From Bad to Worse: Near Matara to Ayacucho (2,760m)
Getting Poked: Days Off in Ayacucho
Dust Bowl 2010: Ayacucho to Mayocc
Rollin´ Up the River: Mayocc to near La Esmerelda
Cycletouring in Peru is Detrimental For Your Hearing: Near La Esmerelda to past Izuchaca
Cruising for Comfort: Past Izuchaca to Huancayo
Take Me To Your Shower: Day Off in Huancayo
Paper Boy: Huancayo to La Oroya
Don't Believe The Road Signs: La Oroya to Cerro de Pasco
Red Light Special: Day Off Cerro de Pasco
Going Down Isn't Always Easy: Cerro de Pasco to Huanaco
Final Stats for Southern Peru

Northern Peru

A Differnt World: Days Off in Huanaco
A Short Day Up a Long Hill: Huanaco to 40km´s from Chavinillo
Getting High and Coming Down: 40km´s from Chavinillo to near Pachas
Stumbling on a Picture Perfect Camping Spot: Near Pachas to near Huansala
Setting a New Personal Height Record: Near Huansala to a spot high in the Cordillera Blanca (4,500m)
The Beginning of A Multi-day Descent: High in the Cordillera Blanca to Huaraz
Mostly Just Lounging Around: Day Off Huaraz
Easy Rider: Huaraz to Caraz
It Takes Two: Day Off in Caraz
Cañon del Pato: Caraz to near Chuquicara
The Coastal Desert: Near Chuquicara to Chao
The Panamericana: Chao to Trujillo
A Cycling Institution- The Casa de Ciclistas: Days Off in Trujillo and the Bus Ride to Pacasmayo
Century: Pacasmayo to Jayance
A Change of Landscape: Jayance to near Limòn
Climate Changes: Limòn to Pucarà
HOT!!: Pucarà to Jaèn
When it Rains it Pours: Day Off Jaèn
Where the Pavement Ends: Jaèn to San Ignacio
Last Day in Peru: San Ignacio to La Balsa
Final Stats for Northern Peru


Easing Into Ecuador: La Balsa to Zumba
Beating the Heat: Zumba to Palanda
Get Down With the Steepness: Palanda to Yangana
Now Entering the Twilight Zone: Yangana to Vilcabamba
Time to Relax: Days Off Vilcabamba
A Change Of Weather: Vilcabamba to Loja
The World´s Biggest Roller Coaster Ride: Loja to Saraguro
Going Batty: Saraguro to La Paz
Front of the Pack: La Paz to Cuenca
Lead Legs: Day Off Cuenca
Doored: Cuenca to Cañar
Shine Your Ever Loving Light on Me: Cañar to Alausi
Seeing a Different Side: Alausi to Guamote
Nearly Flat: Guamote to Riobamba
Not the Nicest City in Ecuador: Day Off Riobamba
More Traffic Than I'm Used To: Riobamba to Ambato
Going Blind: Ambato to near Machachi
BIG City: Near Machachi to Quito
Laptop Love: Day Off in Quito
Celebrate Diversity: Quito to Cayambe
Trail Angels In the Northern Hemisphere: Cayambe to Ambuqui
Spotted Leper: Ambuqui to Huaca
Bienvenidos a Columbia: Huaca to Ipalies, Columbia
Final Stats for Ecuador


The Plan for Columbia: Bus to Popayan and Days Off
The First Day of The Rest of The Tour: Popayan to Santander de Quillchao
Flat Landers: Santander to Buga
Welcome to The Cyclists Paradise: Buga to Cartago
The Climbing Begins: Cartago to Periera
Getting Back into the High Country: Periera to Manizales
A Rest Day to Prepare for the Big Climb Tomorrow: Day Off in Manizales
Cresting the Cordillera Central: Manizales to Padua
Drop it Likes it´s Hot: Padua to near Guaduas
Narrow Road Full of Trucks: Near Guadas to Villeta
Climbing Then Riding in the Dark: Villeta to Facatativa
Reaching the Capital: Facatativà to Bogotà
Exploring the Capital: Days Off in Bogotá
Rain, Rain Go Away: Bogotá to Fusagasugá
The Pay Off: Fusagasugà to Saldeña
Down in the Valley: Saldeña to Aipe
Cooler Temps Result in a Longer Day: Aipe to Gigante
Gaining Ground: Gigante to Timanà
The End of the Road: Timana to San Augustine
Hanging Out on the Finca: Days Off in San Agustine
Southbound Again: San Augustine to San Juan de Villalobos
Halloween: San Juan de Villalobos to Mocoa
A Change of Plans: Days Off in Mocoa
A Day to Remember: Mocoa to The Top of the First Climb
Back to Civilization: The Top of the First Climb to Sidbundoy
A Beautiful Day: Sidbundoy to Pasto
Headed for the Border: Pasto to San Juan
The Return to Ecuador: San Juan to Tulcàn, Ecuador (with side trip to Las Lajas)
Final Stats for Columbia

Ecuador: Backtracking to Quito

Resting Up and Drying Out: Day Off in Tulcán
A Miserable Day: Tulcán to San Gabriel
Glad to be Back in Sunshine Again: San Gabriel to Otavalo
When The Musics Over- The Unceremonious End: Otavalo to Quito
The Two Faces of Quito: Preparing to Depart

The Wrap Up

Trip Stats and Map
Bike Stuff
General Info About Cycle Touring South America: What to Expect Regarding Dogs, Weather, Traffic, etc...
Final Thoughts

Show links to this doc

First Prev Next Last (303 pages) ContentsPage 4Page 8Page 12Page 16Page 20Page 24Page 28Page 32Page 36Page 40Page 44Page 48Page 52Page 56Page 60Page 64Page 68Page 72Page 76Page 80Page 84Page 88Page 92Page 96Page 100Page 104Page 108Page 112Page 116Page 120Page 124Page 128Page 132Page 136Page 140Page 144Page 148Page 152Page 156Page 160Page 164Page 168Page 172Page 176Page 180Page 184Page 188Page 192Page 196Page 200Page 204Page 208Page 212Page 216Page 220Page 224Page 228Page 232Page 236Page 240Page 244Page 248Page 252Page 256Page 260Page 264Page 268Page 272Page 276Page 280Page 284Page 288Page 292Page 296Page 300

"Spinning My Wheels In South America" Copyright © 2009-2014 By Tyson Schimschal - (contact). All rights reserved.
Website Copyright © 2000-2014 by Neil Gunton Thu 23 Oct 2014 07:24 (US/Pacific) (0.187s)      Top    Link    Report    Terms of Service