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A Patagonian Honeymoon


Cycle Touring through Chile and Argentina

3,868 km (2,403 miles) over 93 days from January 10, 2009 to April 12, 2009

Topic: Bicycle Touring  
Categories: Tour diaries, Custom bikes, Equipment lists, Offroad, 1-3 months, First tour
Locales: South America, Chile, Argentina
Year: 2009

Permalink: http://www.crazyguyonabike.com/doc/clanton

Copyright © 2008-2012 By Simon Neuhoff - (contact)

Status: Completed Apr 2009Featured Journal #341
Last updated: Monday April 13, 2009 22:39 UTC -08:00 (edited Sun 12 Jul 2009 22:17 UTC -08:00)
102,761 hits since December 28, 2008 (hitcounts updated nightly)
391 pics

Click here to see this page

Volcan Villarica directly ahead.


Table of Contents

Thanks and some general notes
Where to start?
The Preparation: Research and wedding
The Preparation: "Shakedown" mini tour
The Proposed Route
The Gear: Comments and thoughts
The Gear: The Bikes
The Gear: Camping and clothing
The Gear: Spares, Tools and Miscellaneous
Test run and final preparation
The Departure: Not so grand
London-Sao Paolo-Buenos Aires
Bussing to Bariloche: Super comfy busses and a baptism of fire.
Bariloche - Colonia Suiza: Chico Circuit
Colonia Suiza- Villa Mascardi: Loving the lakes
Villa Mascardi - El Bolson: Hills and hippies
El Bolson- somewhere short of Cholila: Miscalculations and midirections.
Hospedaje - Parque Nationale Los Alerces: Meat, Music and Marijuana
PNLA - Trevelin: Lovely Lagos
Trevelin - Futaleufu: Crossing into Chile
Futaleufu: A day off, and random thoughts on Argentina
Futeleufu - Lago Yelcho: Wild camping at the lake
Lago Yelcho: A lazy day at the lake
Lago Yelcho to La Junta: Joining the Carreterra Austral
La Junta - Parque Nacional Quelat
PNQ - Near Villa Amengual: Climbing into the clouds
Near Villa Amengual - near Manihaules: Wild camping
Near Manihuales - Coyhaique: A city in the wilderness
Coyhaique: A day off in the big city
Coyhaique - Villa Cerro Castillo: How the wind turns.
Villa Cerro Castillo: Fiesta time
Villa Castillo Cerro - Chile Chico: Crossing Lago General Carrera
Chile Chico - near Mallin Grande: Engage low gear
Near Mallin Grande - Puerto Guadal: Rollin´on the Ripio
Puerto Guadal: Jet boating and the Leones Glacier
Puerto Guadal - Rio Tranquilo: A last minute detour
Rio Tranquilo - Puerto Bertrand: The Catedral de Marmol
Puerto Bertrand - Cochrane: Leapfrogging with the Chileans
Parque Nacional Tomanga: Hunting the Heumel
Cochrane: Its name was Leon
Cochrane - middle of nowhere: Heading into the remote south
Middle of nowhere - Caleta Tortel: "Under the boardwalk, down by the seeeeaaa..."
Caleta Tortel - South of Rio Bravo: It keeps the dust down....
South of Rio Bravo - Villa O´Higgins: The end of the road
Villa O Higgins: The waiting game - and a big party!
Villa O Higgins - Lago del Desierto: The great crossing
Lago del Desierto - El Chalten: Back to civilisation
El Chalten: Waiting for the Sun
El Chalten: Weathers better, I´m not.
El Chalten: Condors at last.
El Chalten - Punto del Lago: Mighty, Mystical Mount Fitzroy
Punto Del Lago - Lago Argentino: A fickle wind
Lago Argentino - North of Tapi Aiki: The early bird gets the kilometers
North of Tapi Aiki - North of Rio Turbio: A long day into the wind
North of Rio Turbio - Puerto Natales: Back into Chile
The Torres del Paine "W" Day 1: Glacier Gray
The Torres del Paine "W", Day 2: The Valle del Frances
The Torres del Paine "W", Day 3: Las Torres del Paine
Back to Puerto Natales
Puerto Natales: Day off
Puerto Natales - Villa Tehuelches: A most interesting day and a most hospitable town
Villa Tehuelches = Punta Arenas
Punta Arenas - Porvenir: Across the Straits of Magellan
Porvenir - San Sebastian: Icy winds in the Land of Fire
San Sebastian - Rio Grande: Cruising along the Atlantic
Rio Grande - Tolhuin: Panaderia "La Union"
Tolhuin - Near Ushaia: Into the mountains.
Wild camp to Bahia Lapatia: Cycling to the End of the World
Bahia Lapatia - Ushuaia: Heading north to the southern most city in the world
Ushuaia: Cruising the Beagle Channel
Ushuaia: A day of culture and refinement
Ushuaia: "Admin" day
Ushuaia - Puerto Natales: A protracted bus journey
Perito Merino Glacier: A hell of a day trip
Puerto Natales: All aboard, in a bit.
Navimag Ferry day 1: "Pining for the fjords!"
Navimag Ferry day 2: Decrepit Eden
Navimag Ferry day 3: Bingo!
Puerto Montt - Linao: Myths and Religion
Linao - Tocoihue: Land of the short, sharp hill
Tocoihue - Achao: "As jy dom is, moet jy kak!"
Achao - Ancud: Dolphins for breakfast
Ancud = Puerto Varas: Ruta Cinco, rhymes with Stinko
Puero Varas - Rio Bueno: Putting in the miles on the Panamerican
Rio Bueno - Panguipulli: To the Volcanoes
Random Snaps: A page of random photos, appropos of nothing in particular.
Shrines
Panguipulli - Pucon: Jaded legs and a long shortcut
Pucon: Pouring in Pucon
Pucon: Las Cuevas Volcanicas
Pucon - Chinay Campsite, Parque Nacional Villarica: Volcanic hopes extinguished, off to the hot springs!
Chinay Campsite to Lago Pellalaifa: The decadence continues.
Lago Pellalaifa - San Martin de Los Andes: Over the Andes
San Martin de Los Andes: A day off, and some disquieting news
San Martin de los Andes - Lago Falkner: Knocked off in the rain
Lag Falkner - Villa La Angostura: Drowning by degrees in the seven lakes.
Villa La Angostura - Bariloche: It ends with a whimper, not with a bang.
Bariloche: Full Circle
Epilogue: Back in Blighty


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"A Patagonian Honeymoon" Copyright © 2008-2012 By Simon Neuhoff - (contact). All rights reserved.
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