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A Honeymoon to Remember

A Newlywed Test of Physical and Relationship Endurance

11,305 miles (18,194 km) over 637 days from August 4, 2008 to May 2, 2010

Topic: Bicycle Touring  
Categories: World
Locales: Asia, Kazakhstan, Europe, Russia, Mongolia, China, Vietnam, Cambodia, Thailand, Nepal, India, Pakistan, Xinjiang Uygur Zizhiqu, Kyrgyzstan, Tajikistan, Uzbekistan, Azerbaijan, Georgia, Turkey, Middle East, Syria, Lebanon, Jordan, West Bank, Israel, Albania, Montenegro, Croatia, Hungary, Slovakia, Czech Republic
Years: 2008, 2009, 2010


Copyright © 2008-2014 By Erin Arnold Barkley and Sam Barkley - (contact)

Status: Completed Aug 2010Featured Journal #305
Last update: Friday August 6, 2010 08:19 (US/Pacific) (edited Wed 13 Apr 2011 12:11 (US/Pacific))
1,649,418 hits since March 20, 2008 (hitcounts updated nightly)
3,693 pics

Click here to see this page

Panorama of the Erdene Zuu Monastery, first founded in the 1600s and built with stones from the nearby ruins of Karakorum, the 13th century Mongol capital.

Table of Contents


      Pre-Trip Preparations: Wedding etc.
      Our Route
      A photo-tour of our gear

General Info

      3D flyovers: No need to leave home!
      Shipping & Post Restante: Our country-by-country experiences

Summer 2008

      Kazakhstan: Route map
            August 6, 2008: Hitting the road right off the plane
            Aug. 7: Hottest riding weather ever - 43 C!
            Aug. 8: People give us lots of free food, including undercooked eggs
            Aug. 9: Erin learns not to eat undercooked eggs
            Aug. 10-11: Recovering with lots of Olympics watching in Taldyqorghan
            Aug. 12: We take the bus for 17... erm, 21, no, uh, 23 hours
            Aug. 13: The bus never makes it there and we are happy we have bikes
            Aug. 14: Shopping in Semey
            Aug. 15: Dostoyevsky museum
            Aug. 16: Kazakh cultural observations
            Aug 17: Train into Russia
                  Kazakhstan by the numbers
      Russia: Route map
            Aug. 18: Lovin the Russian roads
            Aug 19: We lose the main road
            Aug 20: At a low point, Sergei rescues us
            Aug 21: We make it to Biysk, Russia
            Aug. 22: We meet friends and dance on a street corner in Biysk
            Aug. 23: Plotting our strategy for Mongolia
            Aug. 24: After two rest days, we leave Biysk
            Aug. 25: Entering the Altai Republic
            Aug. 26: Like Switzerland, only a bit more ramshackle
            Aug. 27: Sam cuts Erin's hair with pocketknife scissors
            Aug. 28: We rise in elevation enough to escape the rain
            Aug. 29: After a scenic pass, we arrive in Ongudai, a depressing town
            Aug. 30: Nothing happens in Ongudai
            Aug. 31: The Katun River 2008 World Rafting Competition
            Sept. 1: First Day of School in the Altai
            Sept. 2: We didn't catch any fish but land our most scenic campspot yet
            Sept. 3: From sublime to slimy in one day
            Sept. 4: Crossing two Russian checkpoints but not the border
                  Russia by the numbers

Fall 2008

      Mongolia: Route map
                  Mongolia: Road guides on googledocs
            Sept. 5: $40 for a 12-mile ride across the Russian/Mongolian border
            Sept. 6: Our rockstar arrival in Olgii
            Sept. 7-13: We are social butterflies in Olgii
            Sept. 7-13: People-watching in Olgii
            Sept. 7-13: Shopping in Olgii
            Sept 13: Left Olgii, but Sam's tire blew out, so we returned to Olgii
            Sept 14: Problem solved, you can find ANYTHING in the Olgii market
            Sept. 15: Fate and weather conditions notwithstanding, we actually leave Olgii
            Sept. 16: Autumn in Mongolia
            Sept. 17: Our stay with the Malchins
            Sept. 18: Caffeine fiends suffer in Mongolia
            Sept. 19: Descending 4000 feet in one day to the desert and Ulaangom
            Sept. 20-23: R&R in Ulaangom
            Sept. 24: Snow encourages us to head south
            Sept. 25: Helpful ger neighbors
            Sept. 26: Camels are still popular U-Hauls in Mongolia
            Sept. 27: Lakeside resort stay with Russian fishing friends
            Sept. 28: Flora and fauna of Khyargas Nuur
            Sept. 29: Long climb towards Ondorhangai
            Sept. 30: Windstorm wakeup and observations on a matriarchal society
            Oct. 1: The Pasture of Indifference
            Oct. 2: Remote Buddhist temple
            Oct. 3: Pictures and video (now posted!) of Tudevtey, a small Mongolian village
            Oct. 4: A night in a hotel (finally!) in Nomrog
            Oct. 5: Still hauling, we spend the night at a truck stop
            Oct. 6: Vodka for breakfast with polite Mongolian truck drivers
            Oct. 7 & 8: Two rest days in Tosentsengel while a storm passes through
            Oct. 9: The Chewy Bit Dilemma and drinking vodka with a local judge
            Oct. 10: Scenic ride to the base of a big climb
            Oct. 11: Over a snowy mountain pass
            Oct. 12: Sam passes the Wyoming bar
            Oct. 13: Determined to reach Tsetserleg, we ride into the night by the light of the full moon
            Oct. 14 - 17: Breakfasts and Buddhas in Tsetserleg
            Oct. 18: To Harhorin, ancient capital of the Mongol Empire
            Oct. 19: Erdene Zuu Monastery and view of ancient Karakorum
            Oct. 20: A mini-desert and trying to beat the winter
            Oct. 21: Sam's 36th birthday and temperatures didn't rise above zero C
            Oct. 22: Stranded by a snow storm in a roadside hotel
            Oct. 23: Brilliant day and easily queasy people should not scroll past the dotted line
            Oct. 24: One last countryside meal with a family
            Oct. 25: We hit UB in time for a martini party at Jocelyn's
            Oct. 26 - Nov. 5: Highlights of our ten day stay in UB
            Nov. 6: A thirty-hour trainride from Ulaanbaatar to Beijing
                  Mongolia by the numbers and reflections
      China: Route map
            Nov. 7: Arrival in the lap of luxury
            Nov. 8-12: Gettin' down to business in Beijing
            Nov. 13: The Forbidden City
            Nov. 14: Looking for the opera, we never find it but explore a hutong by moonlight
            Nov. 15: A bicycle tour of Beijing
            Nov. 16: Bicycle ride to Olympic Park
            Nov. 17: Tianamen Square
            Nov. 18: The Summer Palace
            Nov. 19 - 22: Leaving Beijing

Winter 2008/2009

                        Map Detail: Beijing to Datong
            Nov. 23: We leave Beijing but don't make it far
            Nov. 24: We ride under the Great Wall
            Nov. 25: Our visit to the Great Wall
            Nov. 26: Far off the tourist track
            Nov. 27: Happy Thanksgiving!
            Nov. 28: The coal route
            Nov. 29: Day of an excellent climb
            Nov. 30: Arrival in Datong, a city of 3 million people
            Dec. 2: A Hanging Monastery
            Dec. 3: Lesson learned, get your Chinese visa in Hong Kong
            Dec. 4-5: Early Christmas from Sierra Trading Post
            Dec. 6: Yungang Caves, 1500 year-old Buddhist stone carvings galore
                        Map Detail: Train ride from Datong to Xian
            Dec. 8: Train ride to Xi'an
            Dec. 9-14: Tons of Tombs to Tour in Xi'an
                        Map Detail: Xi'an to Three Gorges Dam
            Dec. 15: We leave Xi'an and discover blue skies
            Dec. 16: Tunneling our way into the mountains
            Dec. 17: Riding in the shadow of expressway construction
            Dec. 18: Forecast for today is moderately mountainous
            Dec. 19: Buildups and breakdowns
            Dec. 20: Weary legs gear up for another day of climbing
            Dec. 21-22: Rest up in Yunxi
            Dec. 23: Ready for more climbing after a rest
            Dec. 24: Hanging our stockings with care
            Dec. 25: Unexpected Christmas run-ins with the army and police result in setback
            Dec. 26-29: Replanning and a climb with Taoist monks up Wudang Shan
            Dec. 30 - Jan. 1: Round Three with Chinese visa application
            Jan. 1: Chinese visa information: last updated 4 August 2009
            Jan. 1 - 7: Three Gorges Dam and return to Wuhan
                        Map detail: Train ride from Yichang to Guilin, via Wuhan
            Jan. 8: Cave capers in Guilin
                        Map detail: Guilin to Vietnamese border
            Jan. 9: Camping among the karsts
            Jan. 10: Good-riddance to our long-suffering mattresses
            Jan. 11: Li River cruise
            Jan. 12: Leaving Yangshou
            Jan. 13: General sights while riding in China's subtropics
            Jan. 14: Major wrong turn, but we don't realize it until one day later
            Jan. 15 & 16: Going home (them, not us)
            Jan. 17: Spooked by a motorcycle crash in front of us
            Jan. 18: Navigationally challenged
            Jan. 19: Through the Nanning suburbs
            Jan. 20: To Nanning for a Vietnamese visa
            Jan. 21 - 23: Prepping for New Year's in Nanning
            Jan. 24: Making a run for the border
            Jan. 25 & 26: Good bye Mr. Rat, hello Year of the Ox!
            Jan. 27: Happy birthday to all dogs everywhere!
                  China by the numbers and reflections
      Vietnam: Route map
            Jan. 27: Entering Vietnam
            Jan. 28: New Years celebrations continue on this side of the border
            Jan. 29-30: Entering the hill tribe area
            Jan. 31: You can't live on pho alone
            Feb. 1: Dead-end day
            Feb. 2: Foregoing the required police permit
            Feb. 3: Police officers in a festive mood send us on our way
            Feb. 4: We reach Meo Vac but Erin's knee pays the price
            Feb. 5: Descending from the wilds of Meo Vac
            Feb. 6-8: Resting in Yen Minh and taking the Vomit Comet to Ha Giang
            Feb. 9-13: Hanoi
            Feb. 14-22: Travels in Vietnam with Erin's parents
                  Vietnam by the numbers
      Cambodia: Route map
            Feb. 23-27: Siem Reap, Cambodia
            Guest post by Mom and Dad
            Feb. 28 - March 7: Hanging out in Siem Reap
            March 8 - 10: Boat ride to Battambang
            March 11 - 12: Savoring pavement
            March 14: Mr. San's Guesthouse
            March 15: Trash the maps, none are right
            March 16: Welcome to the jungle
            March 17: Waking in a swarm of bees and leaving in a letch of leeches
            March 18: Resting in Pramoy
            March 19: One day to Pursat, two rest days to recover
            March 20-21: A few images from Pousat
            March 22: Hauling to Battambang
            March 23: Requisite suffering on bad Cambodian roads
            March 24: Into the land of smiles
                  Cambodia by the numbers
      Thailand: Route map
            March 25 - 29: A three-day convalescence followed by mellow rides to the coast
            March 30 - April 2: A tropical interlude on Samet Island
            April 3 - 7: Making our way to Bangkok
            April 8 - 10: Meeting up with CGOABers in Bangkok
            April 11 - 15: Protests and water fights in Bangkok
                  Thailand by the numbers

Spring 2009

      Nepal: Route map
            April 16 - 22: Our Durbar Square home in Kathmandu
            April 16 - 22: Living life as best you can in Kathmandu
            April 18 & 21: Steppin out to stupas in Kathmandu
            April 23: A mountain biking foray into the Himalaya
            April 25-26: White water rafting on the Bhote Kosi
            April 27-May 1: Last week in Kathmandu
            May 2: On the road again
            May 3-4: We detour to romantic, stuck-in-time Bandipur
            May 5: Arrival in Pokhara, homebase for our trek preparations
            May 8 - 10: Through the foothills of the Annapurna Circuit
            May 11 - 13: Onward through high Himalayas
            May 14 - 15: Over the pass . . .
            May 16 - 22: ...and thru the rest to Pokhara back we go
            May 23: Can't wait to leave Pokhara
            May 24: Curses to cable TV
            May 25 - 26: Lumbini, birthplace of Buddha
            May 27: Chance encounter with old friend turns our group into trio
            May 28: We get schooled in extreme cycle touring
            May 29: To Mr. B's in Bardia National Park
            May 30 - June 1: Treed by rhinos in Bardia National Park
            June 2: To within spitting distance of India
                  Nepal by the numbers

Summer 2009

      India: Route map
            June 3: Missing Nepal before we even leave
            June 4: Unwelcome male attention induces wardrobe adjustment
            June 5 - 6: Long climb for respite from heat
            June 7: The perils of camping in elephant territory
            June 8: More camping lessons to learn
            June 9: To Rishikesh, the Beatles' ex-hangout, among other things
            June 10 - 13: Rishikesh
            June 14 - 15: We find another foreigner no-go area
            June 16: Enjoying the fruits of their labors
            June 17-18: More of the same but exciting to us
            June 19: Wearing out the brakepads
            June 20: We turn onto the Hindustani - Tibetan highway
            June 21: Reluctantly we leave the Sharmas'
            June 22 - 23: Obtaining permits in Rekong Peo
            June 24: Why we like Lone Peak better than Ortlieb
            June 25: The real climbing begins
            June 26: Next stop, Tabo
            June 27: World class art
            June 28: To Kaza, capital of the Spiti valley
            June 29: Day trip to Ki Gompa
            June 30: Setting up for our first climb over a high Himalayan pass
            July 1: Average speed today: 5 mph, slowest to date
            July 2 - 3: Surprise wine find in Keylong crunches our budget but is worth it
            Fourth of July: Celebration
            July 5: Over the Baralacha La at 16,240 ft
            July 6: Riding the Plains of Morei by full moon light
            July 7: Fits of despair turn into thrill of achievement
            July 8: Savoring the beauty of Ladakh
            July 9: We make it (on time!) to 6am morning puja
            July 10 - 14: Caloric intake on a massive scale in Leh
            July 15: From Leh to the base of the Namika La
            July 16: We mistakenly consider 13,500 feet 'low'
            July 17: Riding without brakes
            July 18 - 19: Within spitting distance of Pakistani border
            July 20: WOW. Kashmir is awesome
            July 21 - 23: Chillaxin' in Srinagar
            July 24 - 26: Sikh sights in Amritsar
                  India by the numbers
      Pakistan: Route map
            July 27: Treated to characteristic Pakistani hospitality right off the bat
            July 28 - Aug 2: Learning lots in Lahore
            Aug. 3 - 12: Visa break in Islamabad
            Aug. 13: Back on the bikes after a three week break
            Aug. 14: Merry Pakistani Independence Day
            Aug. 15: Our police escort is a wet blanket on the party
            Aug. 16: Leaving behind the lowlands for good
            Aug. 17 - 18: Visit to a remarkable elementary school
            Aug. 19: Moving up valley
            Aug. 20: Primed to cross the pass tomorrow
            Aug. 21: 10,000 foot descent from Babusar Pass to Chilas
            Aug. 22 - 23: Petroglyphs and progress
            Aug. 24 - 26: Side trip to Fairy Meadows
            Aug. 27 - 28: Meeting Graham in Gilgit
            Aug. 29: Minor money delays
            Aug. 30 - Sept. 2: Hunza water cheers our mood in the dreary weather
            Sept. 3 - 4: A rainy border run
                  Pakistan by the numbers and reflections: The tragedy of no women in the commons

Fall 2009

      China and Kyrgyzstan: Route map
            Sept. 5 - 6: Back in the, back in the, back in the P-PRC!
            Sept. 7 - 8: Quick ride to Kashgar
            Sept. 9 - 11: No internet a boon; we instead have time to explore the heart of East Turkestan
            Sept. 12: A third of the way to Kyrgyzstan
            Sept. 13: Nearing Kyrgyzstan
            Sept. 14: Crossing into Kyrgyzstan
            Sept. 15: Our one-day stay in Kyrgyzstan
      Tajikistan: Route Map
            Sept. 16: Into the wild
            Sept. 17: Adjusting to plateau life
            Sept. 18 - 19: Into Murgab for a rest day
            Sept. 20: This is getting tedious
            Sept. 21: A miserable place to bicycle tour
            Sept. 22: Not a fun day
            Sept. 23: Life is beautiful
            Sept. 24 - Oct. 1: Exploring eastern Tajikistan with an old friend
            Oct. 2 - 5: Paris on the Pyanj
            Oct. 6: Earthquakes enter the equation
            Oct. 7: Then come the landmines
            Oct. 8: Hitches and glitches
            Oct. 9: Past the point of no return
            Oct. 10: A land of plenty
            Oct. 11: Last day along Afghan border
            Oct. 12: Over the hump
            Oct. 13: We see a CITY!
            Oct. 14 - 19: Rest-up in Nurek
            Oct. 20 - 26: Visas and socializing in lovely Dushanbe
            Oct. 27 - 28: Beeline to the Uzbek border
                  Tajikistan by the numbers
      Uzbekistan and Kazakhstan: Route Map
            Oct. 29: No ATMs, but a TV interview
            Oct. 30 - Nov. 1: Through Qarshi, on to Bukhara
            Nov. 2 - 11: Twice delayed in Bukhara
            Nov 12 - 13: Desert crossing going well
            Nov. 14 - 15: Desert now sandier, colder and lonelier than before
            Nov. 16: Arrival in Urgench
            Nov. 17 - 20: To Xiva and back
            Nov. 21: A detour to Fifty Fortresses
            Nov. 22 - 23: Riding turns miserable and we contemplate the advantages of train travel
            Nov. 24 - 27: Three days, three countries
                  Uzbekistan by the numbers

Winter 2009/2010

      Azerbaijan and Georgia: Route map
            Nov. 28 - Dec. 8: Waiting for package in Baku
            Dec. 9: Not picturesque but politically interesting
            Dec. 10: Mud Volcanoes
            Dec. 11 - 13: Crossing Azerbaijan
            Dec. 14 - 15: Rest day
            Dec. 16: Winery distracts us
            Dec. 17: Good-bye Azerbaijan
            Dec. 18: Georgia on our mind
            Dec. 19 - Dec. 24: Time in Tbilisi
            Dec. 25 - 27: Gori details of Stalin etc.
            Dec. 28: Over tiny mountain pass to the subtropics
            Dec. 29 - 30: Wet riding cheered by wine consumption
            Dec. 31 - Jan. 2: Journey to ancient Greece and trip decisions
            Jan. 3: Last night in Georgia
            Jan. 4: Rainy, chilly border crossing
                  Azerbaijan and Georgia by the numbers
      Turkey: Route map
            Jan. 5 - 6: Scenic Black Sea coasting
            Jan. 7: Cave-dwelling in Goreme
            Jan. 8 - 9: Cave churches and hotair balloon rides
            Jan. 10: Cave hopping
            Jan. 11: Last of the Cappadocian cave viewing
            Jan. 12 - 13: Gateway from cold interior to lush coast
            Jan. 14 - 15: First brush with Biblical greatness
            Jan. 16 - 17: Misadventures in navigation
            Jan. 18 - 19: Rainy riding
            Jan. 20: Antioch
            Jan. 21 - 22: Crossing into Syria
                  Turkey by the numbers
      Syria and Lebanon: Route map
            Jan. 23 - 24: Fruitless repairs in Lattakia
            Jan. 25 - 26: First the Rohloff, then the camera
            Jan. 27 - 28: Our intro to Lebanon's patchwork of peoples
            Jan. 29: Beirut
            Jan. 30 - 31: Two days to tackle the Big Climb
            Feb. 1: Roman ruins at Baalbek
            Feb. 2: Back to Syria
            Feb. 3 - 5: Lovely Damascus
            Feb. 6 - 7: Good-bye Syria
                  Syria and Lebanon by the numbers
      Jordan: Route map
            Feb. 8: Jordan's got headwinds
            Feb. 9 - 14: A week of R&R with friends in Amman
            Feb. 15 - 17: Snorkeling and convalescing at the Red Sea
            Feb. 18: Into the Arabian desert proper
            Feb. 19: Bike-Camel-Bike amounts to discomfort
            Feb. 20: Riding along the King's Highway
            Feb. 21 - 24: Petra-fied
            Feb. 25: Torrential downpour drives us into uncomfortable situation
            Feb. 26: Camping by the Dead Sea
            Feb. 27 - March 2: A Dead Sea float and time in Amman

Spring 2010

      West Bank and Israel: Route map
            March 3: A night in Palestine
            March 4: Journey to Jerusalem
            March 5 - 7: Lost in the intensity of Jerusalem
            March 8: More around the West Bank
            March 9: Mountain biking to Tel Aviv
            March 10 - 12: A flustercuck in Athens
      Albania and Montenegro: Route map
            March 13: Who knew Albania was so lovable?
            March 14: Montenegro is tough to find
            March 15 - 16: Ride through Montenegro
            March 17 - 27: Visit from family and successful admission to the Wyoming bar
      Croatia, Hungary, Slovakia and Czech Republic: Route Map
            March 28 - 30: Law and order is fine and good until it applies to us
            March 31 - April 1: Rain and sun through rural Hungary
            April 2 - 5: Easter in Bratislava
            April 6: The Iron Curtain Greenway
            April 7 - 13: Rain, rest and plotting
      Germany, Austria and Finish Line: Route Map
            April 14 - 20: Icelandic ashhole ruins trips
            April 21 - 25: Sharon perseveres!
            April 26 - 29: Our Mom Corps doubles in size
            April 30: Moms on SAG duty
            May 1: Let the party begin!
            May 2: The end is near... it should be here somewhere
            May 3 - 9: Sightseeing and trip home
      Total Stats
      Signing off

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