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Life is like a box of chocolates


Family of 4 riding through Central & South America

16,555 km (10,287 miles) over 587 days from September 1, 2012 to April 10, 2014

Topic: Bicycle Touring  
Categories: Tour diaries, Expedition touring bikes, Recumbent, With kids, Extended, World
Locales: Central America, South America, North America, Mexico, Guatemala, El Salvador, Honduras, Nicaragua, Costa Rica, Panama, Colombia, Ecuador, Bolivia, Peru, Argentina, Uruguay
Years: 2012, 2013, 2014

Permalink: http://www.crazyguyonabike.com/doc/genners

Copyright © 2012-2014 By Pippa Genner - (contact)

Status: Completed Apr 2014Featured Journal #534
Last update: Friday April 11, 2014 06:08 (US/Pacific) (edited Tue 15 Apr 2014 12:43 (US/Pacific))
736,391 hits since July 15, 2012 (hitcounts updated nightly)
3,067 pics

Click here to see this page

Martha and her mother. Pippa and Martha discovered they had an awful lot in common and seemed to hit it right off. She is one of 9 siblings.


Table of Contents

Map of our Route

Background

Introduction: Who are we?
Equipment: Tried & Tested
Preparation: Don't you just love injections
Inspiration: Who is to blame for this madness?
Saying our goodbyes: Leaving Lottie
The Adventure Begins: We're on our way
London to Cancun: In One Piece

Mexico

First Full day In Mexico: Chilling in Cancun
Cancun to Puerto Morelos: No fun on the road
Puerto Morelos to Playa Del Carmen: Snorkelling
Playa del Carmen to Tulum: 1st long day on the bike
Tulum to Coba: Cenote
Coba to Valladolid: Tarantula
Valladolid to Piste: Trip to Chichen Itza
Piste to Izamal: Charlie's Birthday
Izamal to Merida: A tale of two cities - part 1
Merida to Ticul: A tale of two cities - part 2
Ticul to Santa Elena to Hopelchen: Pip's environmental side
Hopelchen to Campeche: Indecision
Campeche: Rest Days
Campeche to Champoton: Bumps and Bruises
Champoton to Sabancuy: Cycling by the sea
Sabancuy to Isla Aguada: First Night in a Tent
Isla Aguada to Ciudad del Carmen: Into the city again
Cuidad del Carmen to Frontera: Celebrity Status
Frontera to Villahermosa: Fish for breakfast
Villahermosa to Teapa: Fresh lychees for lunch
Teapa to Tapilula: Into the mountains
Tapilula to Pueblo Nuevo Solistahuacan: Really tough climb
Pueblo Nuevo Solistahuacan to Larrainzar: Henry not 100%
Larrainzar to San Cristobal de las Casas: Time for a rest
San Cristobal de Las Casas to Teopisca: Farewell to San Cristobal
Teopisca to Comitan: Dodging the Livestock
El Chiflon: Rest Day
Oops, still in Comitan: Time for reflection
Comitan to Ciudad Cuauhtemoc: On the road again
Reflections: Mexico

Guatemala

Ciudad Cuauhtemoc to Colotenango: Day of Contrasts
Colotenango to Huehuetenango: Holding our breath
Huehuetenango: Day spent with Arturo
Huehuetenango to San Cristobal Totonicapan: Perfect weather for climbing
San Cristobal Totonicapan to Quetzaltenango (Xela): 70s Heavy Rock Fest
Day Trips to Fuentes Georginas and Laguna Chiqibal: Hot Springs & Volcanic Lake
Still in Xela: Amoebas, intestinal fungi and other stuff to put you off your dinner...
Bye bye Xela: Sad to leave Hotel del Quetzal
Quetzaltenango to San Marcos La Laguna: Lake Atitlan
A week in San Marcos La Laguna: Just chillin'
San Marcos La Laguna to Tecpan: Pip charms the local police
Tecpan to Antigua: Earthquake
Antigua to Cuilapa: Wrong Turns and U-Turns
Cuilapa to Jalpatagua: In the custody of Guatemala's Finest
Reflections: Guatemala

El Salvador

Jalpatagua to Ahuachapan: Difficult leaving the family Agius
Ahuachapan to Chalchuapa: Dinner served by future Miss Universe hopeful
Chalchuapa to Santa Ana: Fab hostel
Santa Ana to Lourdes: Goodbye to some friends
Lourdes to San Diego, La Libertad: Back to the beach
San Diego, La Libertad to Zacatecoluca: Hot
Zacatecoluca to San Vicente: The highlands beckon once more
San Vicente to Berlin: 1st puncture, guess who ?
Berlin to Alegria: Pippa's birthday
Alegria to Santa Rosa de Lima: plug for a great website for maps
Reflections: El Salvador

Honduras

Santa Rosa de Lima to San Lorenzo: Paying to enter Honduras
San Lorenzo to Somotillo: Honduras was lovely

Nicaragua

Somotillo to Leon: Breaking the century barrier.
Days off in Leon: Haircuts and a spot of volcano surfing
Leon to Managua: Cheesy Christmas moments
Managua to Granada: Jin's tonic - a great hostel
Granada: Days off
Granada to Playa Venecia, Ometepe: Pippa turning green on bobbing ferry
Relaxing on Ometepe: Howler Monkeys and Fireflies
Reflections: Nicaragua

Costa Rica

Ometepe to La Cruz: Should we turn back ?
La Cruz to Liberia: Quirkiest of accommodation
Liberia to Canas: Jobs Day
Canas to Tilaran: Charlie's turn with the camera
Monteverde: Glad for Brendan's advice
Christmas wishes from Tilaran: Blown away
Tilaran to La Fortuna: Typical UK weather
La Fortuna to Los Chiles: Merry Christmas Everyone!!!
Los Chiles to Horquetas: Our first Toucan
Horquetas to Siquirres: Ligh rain, showers, torrential showers and Heavy Rain
Siquirres to Cahuita: Bus shelter to bus shelter
Reflections: Costa Rica

Panama

Cahuita to Changuinola: Simpler border crossing than expected
Changuinola to Almirante: Tough sights to see
Almirante to Rambala: Rural Panama at last
Rambala to Fortuna: Crossing the Continental Divide
Fortuna to Gualaca: We are loving Panama
Gualaca to San Felix: Microcosm
San Felix to Tole: Change of Routine
Tole to Las Palmas: Fruit fest
Las Palmas to Sona: Cowboy country
Sona to Santiago: Gorgeous early start
Rest days in Santiago: Finally something other than chicken and rice
Santiago to Penonome: No room at the inn
Penonome to San Carlos: Night on the beach
San Carlos to La Chorrera: Cycling with a pro on the Panamerican!
La Chorrera to Panama City: Jin brings good tidings
Panama City: Resting, waiting for a boat
Panama City to Maria Chiquita: Opportunism or Larceny
Maria Chiquita to Portobelo: Coasting along ( Henry's idea )
Portobelo to Puerto Lindo: Waiting for the boat
Boat Trip to Colombia via San Blas islands: A Great Adventure
Reflections: Panama

Colombia

Rest days in Cartagena: Heads are spinning, literally
Cartagena to Maria La Baja: On the radio
Maria La Baja to San Ononfre: Debates on Palm Oil
San Onofre to Tolu: Memorable day on the back roads
Tolu to Lorica: Moto mania
Lorica to Monteria: Iguanas and Monkeys in the Park
Monteria to Planeta Rica: Our camera develops personality
Planeta Rica to Caucasia: Another pair of sunglasses goes west
Caucasia to Taraza: We are loving the lowlands
Taraza to Valdivia: Into the Andes
Valdivia to Yarumal: The Good Samaritan
Rest days in Yarumal: This place is proving difficult to leave
Yarumal to Santa Rosa de Osos: The French Connection
Santa Rosa de Osos to Medellin: The Yarumal connection continues
Medellin to San Antonio de Prado: Casa de Cyclistas
San Antonio de Prado to La Pintada: Camping for a change
La Pintada to Supia: Saying our last goodbyes to Guillaume and Cecile
Supia to Riosucio: Short Day on the bikes
Riosucio to Anserma: Spoke 2 soon
Anserma to Chinchina: On the front line
Chinchina to Finca Hacienda Venecia: Camping on a Coffee Farm
Finca Hacienda Venecia to Santa Rosa de Cabal: Hot Springs
Santa Rosa de Cabal to Salento: Gentle town high in the hills
Salento to Calarca: Warmshowers
Calarca to Tulua: Guadua
Tulua to Palmira: Sugarcane country
Palmira to Santander de Quilichao: Averaging 4 Milos per hour
Santander de Quilichao to Petrol Station near Tunia: Snooker Loopy
Tunia to Popayan: Heading for a Rest
Feet up in Popayan: Busier than we expected
Popoyan to Paletara: Mud, mud glorious mud
Paletara to Isnos: Bone Rattling
Isnos to San Agustin: Party Town
Days off in San Agustin: Only fools and horses
San Agustin to San Juan de Villalobos: Long day heading south
San Juan de Villalobos to Mocoa: Lucky break with the brakes
Mocoa to Pasto - Day 1: Setting out on the 'Trampoline of Death'...
Mocoa to Pasto - Day 2: Trudging along rather than bouncing on the Trampoline of Death
Mocoa to Pasto - Day 3: At last, a dry day
Mocoa to Pasto - Day 4: Cycling with Aaron
Rest Days in Pasto: Boy, did we need them
Pasto to Yanala: Views everywhere you look
Reflections: Colombia

Ecuador

Yanala to Tulcan: Living the life of luxury with the Bomberos
Tulcan to a Refuge at 3700m on road to El Angel: Out of the Mist to a Slice of Heaven
El Refugio to Ibarra: 25 degree temperature change
Ibarra to Otavalo: Hasta Luego Aaron
Otavalo to Cayambe: Easing Henry back to health
Cayambe to Tumbaco: Rest days near Quito ahead
Rest Days in Quito: Santiago and the Casa de Ciclistas
Tumbaco to Machachi: Time for farewells and back on the road
Machachi to Cotopaxi: More pushing than cycling
Cotopaxi to Lacatunga: Picture perfect camping
Latacunga to Ambato: Staying with a champion cyclist
Ambato to Mocha: Pippa not feeling well
Mocha to Riobamba: Pippa the Valiant
Rest days in Riobamba: Tourists once more
Riobamba to Guamote: Beautiful Riding Day - Just What We Needed
Guamote to Alausi: Gem of a market in Guamote
Alausi: Exploring the mountain town
Alausi to Chunchi: Pan American at its best
Chunchi to Zhud: Dramatic weather changes - plus there IS a hotel in Zhud
Zhud to El Tambo: Ingapirca
El Tambo to Azogues: Continuing the theme of shorter riding days
Azogues to Cuenca: Horrible ride into Cuenca
Resting in Cuenca: Pippa's mercy dash
Cuenca to Santa Isabel: Leaving the Andes after 3 and a half months and 2300km
Santa Isabel to Santa Rosa: Bomberos come to Henry's rescue
Reflections: Ecuador

Peru

Santa Rosa to Tumbes: Goodbye wonderful Ecuador
Tumbes to Mancora: Racking up the kms on panel flat roads
Mancora to Talara: Tough Day in the Sun
Talara to Marcavelica: Blogging in Peru is going to be really easy
Marcavelica to Piura: Yoghurt, we found yoghurt - YIPPEE
Piura to El Virrey: Smiles and kindness
El Virrey to Olmos: Rain in the desert
Olmos to Tucume: Faith restored
Tucume to Reque: A 'passing through' day
Reque to Chepen: Bleak landscape
Chepen to San Pedro de Lloc: A gentle quiet Peruvian town at last
San Pedro de Lloc to Chocope: Passing through Paijan
Chocope to Trujillo: Days off at the famous Casa de Ciclistas in Trujillo
Trujillo to Chao: Poignant Moment
Chao to Chuquicara: Into the hills at last
Chuquicara to Yuracmarca: Hats off to the boys
Yuracmarca to Caraz: Canon del Pato
Rest Days in Caraz: Time for a lie in
Caraz to Carhuaz: Short, gentle ride up the Rio Santa valley
Carhuaz to Huaraz: Gently acclimatizing
Huaraz to Catac: Big mention for the best eating experience so far
Catac to Conococha: The stunning climb continues
Conococha to Pachapaqui: It is jolly cold
Pachapaqui to Huallanca: Highpoint of the Trip
Huallanca to Colquillas: Back to School
Colquillas to Huanuco: 50km descent
Rest Days in Huanuco: Much needed
Huanuco to Huariaca: Peruvian psychology
Huariaca to San Juan: Shattered
San Juan to Junin: The Great Turnip
Junin to San Francisco: Guanacos
San Francisco to Concepcion: Cycling like madmen for a rest day
Rest Days in Concepcion: Chilling out before the next tough stage
Concepcion to Izcuchaca: Peru's landscape is simply stunning
Izcachuca to Anco: Meandering along with the Rio Mantaro
Anco to Huanta: How tough ?
Huanta to Ayacucho: Lethargy creeping in
Rest days in Ayacucho: Enforced lay-off
Ayacucho to Camping on a Quechuan Farm: Getting used to rural Quechuan lifestyle
A Quechuan Farm to Chumbes: Cat and Mouse with the Rain
Chumbes to Uripa: Proud parents again
Uripa to Andahuaylas: Back up to 4100m
Delayed in Andahuaylas: Henry's turn for bed rest
Andahuaylas to Cusco by bus: Parenting before Cycling
Cusco: Relaxing
Machu Picchu: A wonderful experience
Snap Happy Day in Cusco: Flavours of small town Peru
Peruvian education: Boys spend a day in school
Day Trips to the Sacred Valley: Friends Reunited
Back on the Road Tomorrow: Social Whirl
Cusco to Quiquijana: Cementing Anglo-French Relations
Quiquijana to Pampamarca: The Four Lagunas
Pampamarca to Camp at abandoned school: Camping at 4400m
Camp near Lake Langui to Alto Pichigua: Rejuvenated Henry
Accocunca to Camp past Cruz Pampa: Double Celebrations
Wild Camp to Ccaycho: Unbelievable Landscapes Continue
Ccaycho to Vilavila: 4850 metres
Vilavila to Lampa: End of the Mountains
Lampa to Cabana: The road gets worse.
Cabana to Puno: Asphalt at last
Rest Days in Puno: Floating Islands of Uros
Puno to Juli: Last Night in Peru
Reflections: Peru

Bolivia

Juli to Copacabana: Bolivia - our 11th country
Rest Days in Copacabana: Isla de Sol and Charlie's 11th birthday
Copacabana to San Pedro de Tiquna: Stranded by Ferry Strike
San Pedro de Tiquina to San Roque: Goodbye Lake Titicaca
San Roque to La Paz: 'Colectivo' dodging
Days off in La Paz: Jungle/Pampas Trip
Blog to Patacamaya: Up And Away
Blog to Caracollo: Dead dogs and dumper trucks
Caracollo to Oruro: Flat and Quick
Oruro to Poopo: Time for a Dip
Poopo to Huari: Hope this weather holds until after the Salar
Huari to Villa Esparanza: Henry Digs Deep
Villa Esparanza to Salinas de Garci Mendoza: Alternative Roads
Salinas de Garci Mendoza to Coqueza: Onto the Salar
Coqueza to Salar de Uyuni: Cycling on the Salar de Uyuni
Salar de Uyuni to Uyuni: Goodbye to the Salt
Rest Days in Uyuni: Train Cemetery
Uyuni to Tica Tica: Sleeping in a Llama Enclosure
Tica Tica to Agua de Castilla: Road Angel
Agua de Castilla to Potosi: You need climbing ropes to reach the centre of Potosi
Rest Days in Potosi: City Rich in Historical Significance
Potosi: Going our Separate Ways
Potosi to past Vitichi: The 2 Musketeers
Vitichi to nr Ascanti: Snapped Guy Rope
Ascanti to Tupiza: Family Reunited
Rest Days in Tupiza: Relaxing before leaving Bolivia
Tupiza to Mojo: More Cyclists
Reflections: Bolivia

Argentina

Mojo to La Quiaca: Into Argentina With Two Companions
La Quiaca to wild camp near Tres Cruces: Hope These Flat Roads Continue
Tres Cruces to Humahuaca: How many Cyclists ?
Humahuaca to Purmamarca: Goodbye to Joanna & Steph
Purmamarca to Yala: Enjoying the lazier days
Yala to Dique La Cienaga: Lakeside Campsite
Dique La Cienaga to Salta: Coincidences
Rest Days in Salta: Socializing in Argentina is More Tiring than Cycling
Salta to Coronel Moldes: Warming Up
Coronel Moldes to Alemania: Camping at an Old Train Station
Alemania to Los Castillos: What a Wonderful Day
Los Castillos to Cafayate: Best Night's Sleep
Relaxing in Cafayate: Great Camp Food Once More
Cafeyate to Ruinas de Quilmes: Out In The Midday Sun
Ruinas de Quilmes to Santa Maria: Bike repair day
Santa Maria to Campo Los Pozuelos: Singing Lines
Campo Los Pozuelos to San Fernando: Henry’s turn with the camera
San Fernando to Londres: Charlie behind the lens
Londres to San Blas: Desert
San Blas to Wild Camp before Chilecito: Vast
Wild Camp to Chilecito: Movie Stars
Rest days in Chilecito: Staying with Jorge and his family
Chilecito: A Great Experience with Jorge
Chilecito to Wild Camp near Pagancillo: Pippa's Birthday Treat
Pagancillo to Parque Nacional Talampaya: Fox, Armadillo etc
Parque Nacional Talampaya to San Agustin de Valle Fertil: Perfect Cycling Day
San Agustin de Valle Fertil to Astica: Taking it Easy amidst all the kindness
Astica to Marayes: Riding the Dragon’s Back
Marayes to Caucete: A Doozy of a Storm
Caucete to San Juan: Invitation to our first Parilla
San Juan to Media Agua: Suffocating December
Media Agua to Jocoli: The Boys' Maths Lesson
Jocoli to Mendoza: Big City
Mendoza to Colonia Suiza: Meeting up with Sabine, Dario and family
Days Off From the Bikes: Enjoying the Trombotto-Herfert Hospitality
Colonia Suiza to Tunuyan: Memories of France
Tunuyan to San Carlos: Pippa's perfect place
Working in San Carlos: Rescue Dogs
Cycling around San Carlos: Keeping in Trim
Merry Christmas: Our Second Yuletide Celebration of the Trip
San Carlos to Truck Stop on Ruta 143: Parting is Such Sweet Sorrow
Truck Stop on Ruta 143 to San Rafael: Mistake giving Pip's bike computer to Charlie
Days off in San Rafael: Valle Grande
San Rafael: Rafting and the Dakar
San Rafael to Police Station on Ruta 146: Where did those 2 weeks go ?
Police Station on Ruta 146 to Lay-By on Ruta 146: An educational oasis in the middle of nowhere
Lay-By on Ruta 146 to Behind Tree on Ruta 146: Skunked !
Behind a Tree on Ruta 146 to San Luis: Time for a shower
Days Off in San Luis: More TV and Getting Ready for Tour de San Luis
San Luis: Following the Tour of San Luis
San Luis to La Florida: Great to be back on the road.
La Florida to La Toma: Skinny Dipping
La Toma to Achiras: What is it with Argentinians and Camping?
Achiras to Rio Cuarto: The Power of TV
Rio Cuarto to Ucacha: 40km becomes 95km
Ucacha to Lobarde: Dead Snake Country
Lobarde to Corral de Bustos: Wetlands
Corral de Bustos to Arteaga: I think we got off lightly
Arteaga to Casilda: A Brush with the Law then a Night with the Bomberos
Casilda to Rosario: Into the great metropolis
Days off in Rosario: Catching up on Much Needed Sleep
Rosario to Victoria to Nogoya: Trying to Dodge the Storm
Nogoya to Balneario after Rosario de Tala: Mosquitoes the size of small dogs
Balneario after Rosario de Tala to Urdinarrain: Unsurpassed Hospitality
Urdinarrain to Pueblo Belgrano: Trying to find a place to stay in Partytown
Reflections: Argentina

Uruguay

Pueblo Belgrano to Fray Bentos: Border Crossing Days are always interesting
Resting Up in Fray Bentos: First Impressions
Fray Bentos: History Lesson
Fray Bentos to Mercedes: Bananagrams - the first thing we pack on a trip like this
Mercedes to Jose Enrique Rodo: Town Names like Jose Enrique Iglesias and Juan Luis Suarez ( made those up )
Jose Enrique Rodo to Ismael Cortinas: Uruguay continues to feel relaxed and chilled
Ismael Cortinas to San Jose de Mayo: The Magic is Still There
San Jose de Mayo to Canalones: Arcangel Rodriguez Acosta
Canalones to Soca: Henry's Knees
Soca to San Carlos: Further than we had anticipated
San Carlos to Rocha: Uruguay so far
Rocha to Castillos: Best to avoid carnival time
Castillos to Punta del Diablo: On the coast for the first time since May 2013
Punta del Diablo to Castillos: Retracing our Steps
Castillos to Aguas Dulces: Sweet Waters
Aguas Dulces to Valizas: Time for a Hike
Valizas to La Pedrera: Meeting up with an old friend
La Pedrera to Jose Ignacio: Time to leave this little paradise
Jose Ignacio to Maldonado: Long Night
Day off in Punta del Este: Rather posh
Maldonado to Las Flores: Chance meeting with like-minded people and another day in paradise
Las Flores to Montevideo: What a civilised way to enter a big city
Exploring Montevideo: Chilled Capital City
Montevideo to Libertad: The Uruguayan sense of humour
Libertad to Colonia Valdense: Zimmer frames and purple rinses
Colonia Valdense to Colonia del Sacramento: The final major cycling day ?
Days off in Colonia del Sacramento: Chilling before Buenos Aires
Reflections: Uruguay

Argentina

Colonia del Sacramento to Buenos Aires: Ferry ride over the River Plate
Buenos Aires: Living in this cosmopolitan monster
Iguazu: Wow, Wower and Wowest
Last Day: Life is certainly like a box of chocolates

End Stuff

Lessons learned: Advice, tips and sone basic gear reviews


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