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Life is like a box of chocolates

Family of 4 riding through Central & South America

16,555 km (10,287 miles) over 587 days from September 1, 2012 to April 10, 2014

Topic: Bicycle Touring  
Categories: Tour diaries, Expedition touring bikes, Recumbent, With kids, Extended, World
Locales: Central America, South America, North America, Mexico, Guatemala, El Salvador, Honduras, Nicaragua, Costa Rica, Panama, Colombia, Ecuador, Bolivia, Peru, Argentina, Uruguay
Years: 2012, 2013, 2014


Copyright © 2012-2014 By Pippa Genner - (contact)

Status: Completed Apr 2014Featured Journal #534
Last update: Friday April 11, 2014 06:08 (US/Pacific) (edited Tue 15 Apr 2014 12:43 (US/Pacific))
737,343 hits since July 15, 2012 (hitcounts updated nightly)
3,067 pics

Click here to see this page

The strangest statue we have encountered - a camp knight with a dislike of the elements

Table of Contents

Map of our Route


Introduction: Who are we?
Equipment: Tried & Tested
Preparation: Don't you just love injections
Inspiration: Who is to blame for this madness?
Saying our goodbyes: Leaving Lottie
The Adventure Begins: We're on our way
London to Cancun: In One Piece


First Full day In Mexico: Chilling in Cancun
Cancun to Puerto Morelos: No fun on the road
Puerto Morelos to Playa Del Carmen: Snorkelling
Playa del Carmen to Tulum: 1st long day on the bike
Tulum to Coba: Cenote
Coba to Valladolid: Tarantula
Valladolid to Piste: Trip to Chichen Itza
Piste to Izamal: Charlie's Birthday
Izamal to Merida: A tale of two cities - part 1
Merida to Ticul: A tale of two cities - part 2
Ticul to Santa Elena to Hopelchen: Pip's environmental side
Hopelchen to Campeche: Indecision
Campeche: Rest Days
Campeche to Champoton: Bumps and Bruises
Champoton to Sabancuy: Cycling by the sea
Sabancuy to Isla Aguada: First Night in a Tent
Isla Aguada to Ciudad del Carmen: Into the city again
Cuidad del Carmen to Frontera: Celebrity Status
Frontera to Villahermosa: Fish for breakfast
Villahermosa to Teapa: Fresh lychees for lunch
Teapa to Tapilula: Into the mountains
Tapilula to Pueblo Nuevo Solistahuacan: Really tough climb
Pueblo Nuevo Solistahuacan to Larrainzar: Henry not 100%
Larrainzar to San Cristobal de las Casas: Time for a rest
San Cristobal de Las Casas to Teopisca: Farewell to San Cristobal
Teopisca to Comitan: Dodging the Livestock
El Chiflon: Rest Day
Oops, still in Comitan: Time for reflection
Comitan to Ciudad Cuauhtemoc: On the road again
Reflections: Mexico


Ciudad Cuauhtemoc to Colotenango: Day of Contrasts
Colotenango to Huehuetenango: Holding our breath
Huehuetenango: Day spent with Arturo
Huehuetenango to San Cristobal Totonicapan: Perfect weather for climbing
San Cristobal Totonicapan to Quetzaltenango (Xela): 70s Heavy Rock Fest
Day Trips to Fuentes Georginas and Laguna Chiqibal: Hot Springs & Volcanic Lake
Still in Xela: Amoebas, intestinal fungi and other stuff to put you off your dinner...
Bye bye Xela: Sad to leave Hotel del Quetzal
Quetzaltenango to San Marcos La Laguna: Lake Atitlan
A week in San Marcos La Laguna: Just chillin'
San Marcos La Laguna to Tecpan: Pip charms the local police
Tecpan to Antigua: Earthquake
Antigua to Cuilapa: Wrong Turns and U-Turns
Cuilapa to Jalpatagua: In the custody of Guatemala's Finest
Reflections: Guatemala

El Salvador

Jalpatagua to Ahuachapan: Difficult leaving the family Agius
Ahuachapan to Chalchuapa: Dinner served by future Miss Universe hopeful
Chalchuapa to Santa Ana: Fab hostel
Santa Ana to Lourdes: Goodbye to some friends
Lourdes to San Diego, La Libertad: Back to the beach
San Diego, La Libertad to Zacatecoluca: Hot
Zacatecoluca to San Vicente: The highlands beckon once more
San Vicente to Berlin: 1st puncture, guess who ?
Berlin to Alegria: Pippa's birthday
Alegria to Santa Rosa de Lima: plug for a great website for maps
Reflections: El Salvador


Santa Rosa de Lima to San Lorenzo: Paying to enter Honduras
San Lorenzo to Somotillo: Honduras was lovely


Somotillo to Leon: Breaking the century barrier.
Days off in Leon: Haircuts and a spot of volcano surfing
Leon to Managua: Cheesy Christmas moments
Managua to Granada: Jin's tonic - a great hostel
Granada: Days off
Granada to Playa Venecia, Ometepe: Pippa turning green on bobbing ferry
Relaxing on Ometepe: Howler Monkeys and Fireflies
Reflections: Nicaragua

Costa Rica

Ometepe to La Cruz: Should we turn back ?
La Cruz to Liberia: Quirkiest of accommodation
Liberia to Canas: Jobs Day
Canas to Tilaran: Charlie's turn with the camera
Monteverde: Glad for Brendan's advice
Christmas wishes from Tilaran: Blown away
Tilaran to La Fortuna: Typical UK weather
La Fortuna to Los Chiles: Merry Christmas Everyone!!!
Los Chiles to Horquetas: Our first Toucan
Horquetas to Siquirres: Ligh rain, showers, torrential showers and Heavy Rain
Siquirres to Cahuita: Bus shelter to bus shelter
Reflections: Costa Rica


Cahuita to Changuinola: Simpler border crossing than expected
Changuinola to Almirante: Tough sights to see
Almirante to Rambala: Rural Panama at last
Rambala to Fortuna: Crossing the Continental Divide
Fortuna to Gualaca: We are loving Panama
Gualaca to San Felix: Microcosm
San Felix to Tole: Change of Routine
Tole to Las Palmas: Fruit fest
Las Palmas to Sona: Cowboy country
Sona to Santiago: Gorgeous early start
Rest days in Santiago: Finally something other than chicken and rice
Santiago to Penonome: No room at the inn
Penonome to San Carlos: Night on the beach
San Carlos to La Chorrera: Cycling with a pro on the Panamerican!
La Chorrera to Panama City: Jin brings good tidings
Panama City: Resting, waiting for a boat
Panama City to Maria Chiquita: Opportunism or Larceny
Maria Chiquita to Portobelo: Coasting along ( Henry's idea )
Portobelo to Puerto Lindo: Waiting for the boat
Boat Trip to Colombia via San Blas islands: A Great Adventure
Reflections: Panama


Rest days in Cartagena: Heads are spinning, literally
Cartagena to Maria La Baja: On the radio
Maria La Baja to San Ononfre: Debates on Palm Oil
San Onofre to Tolu: Memorable day on the back roads
Tolu to Lorica: Moto mania
Lorica to Monteria: Iguanas and Monkeys in the Park
Monteria to Planeta Rica: Our camera develops personality
Planeta Rica to Caucasia: Another pair of sunglasses goes west
Caucasia to Taraza: We are loving the lowlands
Taraza to Valdivia: Into the Andes
Valdivia to Yarumal: The Good Samaritan
Rest days in Yarumal: This place is proving difficult to leave
Yarumal to Santa Rosa de Osos: The French Connection
Santa Rosa de Osos to Medellin: The Yarumal connection continues
Medellin to San Antonio de Prado: Casa de Cyclistas
San Antonio de Prado to La Pintada: Camping for a change
La Pintada to Supia: Saying our last goodbyes to Guillaume and Cecile
Supia to Riosucio: Short Day on the bikes
Riosucio to Anserma: Spoke 2 soon
Anserma to Chinchina: On the front line
Chinchina to Finca Hacienda Venecia: Camping on a Coffee Farm
Finca Hacienda Venecia to Santa Rosa de Cabal: Hot Springs
Santa Rosa de Cabal to Salento: Gentle town high in the hills
Salento to Calarca: Warmshowers
Calarca to Tulua: Guadua
Tulua to Palmira: Sugarcane country
Palmira to Santander de Quilichao: Averaging 4 Milos per hour
Santander de Quilichao to Petrol Station near Tunia: Snooker Loopy
Tunia to Popayan: Heading for a Rest
Feet up in Popayan: Busier than we expected
Popoyan to Paletara: Mud, mud glorious mud
Paletara to Isnos: Bone Rattling
Isnos to San Agustin: Party Town
Days off in San Agustin: Only fools and horses
San Agustin to San Juan de Villalobos: Long day heading south
San Juan de Villalobos to Mocoa: Lucky break with the brakes
Mocoa to Pasto - Day 1: Setting out on the 'Trampoline of Death'...
Mocoa to Pasto - Day 2: Trudging along rather than bouncing on the Trampoline of Death
Mocoa to Pasto - Day 3: At last, a dry day
Mocoa to Pasto - Day 4: Cycling with Aaron
Rest Days in Pasto: Boy, did we need them
Pasto to Yanala: Views everywhere you look
Reflections: Colombia


Yanala to Tulcan: Living the life of luxury with the Bomberos
Tulcan to a Refuge at 3700m on road to El Angel: Out of the Mist to a Slice of Heaven
El Refugio to Ibarra: 25 degree temperature change
Ibarra to Otavalo: Hasta Luego Aaron
Otavalo to Cayambe: Easing Henry back to health
Cayambe to Tumbaco: Rest days near Quito ahead
Rest Days in Quito: Santiago and the Casa de Ciclistas
Tumbaco to Machachi: Time for farewells and back on the road
Machachi to Cotopaxi: More pushing than cycling
Cotopaxi to Lacatunga: Picture perfect camping
Latacunga to Ambato: Staying with a champion cyclist
Ambato to Mocha: Pippa not feeling well
Mocha to Riobamba: Pippa the Valiant
Rest days in Riobamba: Tourists once more
Riobamba to Guamote: Beautiful Riding Day - Just What We Needed
Guamote to Alausi: Gem of a market in Guamote
Alausi: Exploring the mountain town
Alausi to Chunchi: Pan American at its best
Chunchi to Zhud: Dramatic weather changes - plus there IS a hotel in Zhud
Zhud to El Tambo: Ingapirca
El Tambo to Azogues: Continuing the theme of shorter riding days
Azogues to Cuenca: Horrible ride into Cuenca
Resting in Cuenca: Pippa's mercy dash
Cuenca to Santa Isabel: Leaving the Andes after 3 and a half months and 2300km
Santa Isabel to Santa Rosa: Bomberos come to Henry's rescue
Reflections: Ecuador


Santa Rosa to Tumbes: Goodbye wonderful Ecuador
Tumbes to Mancora: Racking up the kms on panel flat roads
Mancora to Talara: Tough Day in the Sun
Talara to Marcavelica: Blogging in Peru is going to be really easy
Marcavelica to Piura: Yoghurt, we found yoghurt - YIPPEE
Piura to El Virrey: Smiles and kindness
El Virrey to Olmos: Rain in the desert
Olmos to Tucume: Faith restored
Tucume to Reque: A 'passing through' day
Reque to Chepen: Bleak landscape
Chepen to San Pedro de Lloc: A gentle quiet Peruvian town at last
San Pedro de Lloc to Chocope: Passing through Paijan
Chocope to Trujillo: Days off at the famous Casa de Ciclistas in Trujillo
Trujillo to Chao: Poignant Moment
Chao to Chuquicara: Into the hills at last
Chuquicara to Yuracmarca: Hats off to the boys
Yuracmarca to Caraz: Canon del Pato
Rest Days in Caraz: Time for a lie in
Caraz to Carhuaz: Short, gentle ride up the Rio Santa valley
Carhuaz to Huaraz: Gently acclimatizing
Huaraz to Catac: Big mention for the best eating experience so far
Catac to Conococha: The stunning climb continues
Conococha to Pachapaqui: It is jolly cold
Pachapaqui to Huallanca: Highpoint of the Trip
Huallanca to Colquillas: Back to School
Colquillas to Huanuco: 50km descent
Rest Days in Huanuco: Much needed
Huanuco to Huariaca: Peruvian psychology
Huariaca to San Juan: Shattered
San Juan to Junin: The Great Turnip
Junin to San Francisco: Guanacos
San Francisco to Concepcion: Cycling like madmen for a rest day
Rest Days in Concepcion: Chilling out before the next tough stage
Concepcion to Izcuchaca: Peru's landscape is simply stunning
Izcachuca to Anco: Meandering along with the Rio Mantaro
Anco to Huanta: How tough ?
Huanta to Ayacucho: Lethargy creeping in
Rest days in Ayacucho: Enforced lay-off
Ayacucho to Camping on a Quechuan Farm: Getting used to rural Quechuan lifestyle
A Quechuan Farm to Chumbes: Cat and Mouse with the Rain
Chumbes to Uripa: Proud parents again
Uripa to Andahuaylas: Back up to 4100m
Delayed in Andahuaylas: Henry's turn for bed rest
Andahuaylas to Cusco by bus: Parenting before Cycling
Cusco: Relaxing
Machu Picchu: A wonderful experience
Snap Happy Day in Cusco: Flavours of small town Peru
Peruvian education: Boys spend a day in school
Day Trips to the Sacred Valley: Friends Reunited
Back on the Road Tomorrow: Social Whirl
Cusco to Quiquijana: Cementing Anglo-French Relations
Quiquijana to Pampamarca: The Four Lagunas
Pampamarca to Camp at abandoned school: Camping at 4400m
Camp near Lake Langui to Alto Pichigua: Rejuvenated Henry
Accocunca to Camp past Cruz Pampa: Double Celebrations
Wild Camp to Ccaycho: Unbelievable Landscapes Continue
Ccaycho to Vilavila: 4850 metres
Vilavila to Lampa: End of the Mountains
Lampa to Cabana: The road gets worse.
Cabana to Puno: Asphalt at last
Rest Days in Puno: Floating Islands of Uros
Puno to Juli: Last Night in Peru
Reflections: Peru


Juli to Copacabana: Bolivia - our 11th country
Rest Days in Copacabana: Isla de Sol and Charlie's 11th birthday
Copacabana to San Pedro de Tiquna: Stranded by Ferry Strike
San Pedro de Tiquina to San Roque: Goodbye Lake Titicaca
San Roque to La Paz: 'Colectivo' dodging
Days off in La Paz: Jungle/Pampas Trip
Blog to Patacamaya: Up And Away
Blog to Caracollo: Dead dogs and dumper trucks
Caracollo to Oruro: Flat and Quick
Oruro to Poopo: Time for a Dip
Poopo to Huari: Hope this weather holds until after the Salar
Huari to Villa Esparanza: Henry Digs Deep
Villa Esparanza to Salinas de Garci Mendoza: Alternative Roads
Salinas de Garci Mendoza to Coqueza: Onto the Salar
Coqueza to Salar de Uyuni: Cycling on the Salar de Uyuni
Salar de Uyuni to Uyuni: Goodbye to the Salt
Rest Days in Uyuni: Train Cemetery
Uyuni to Tica Tica: Sleeping in a Llama Enclosure
Tica Tica to Agua de Castilla: Road Angel
Agua de Castilla to Potosi: You need climbing ropes to reach the centre of Potosi
Rest Days in Potosi: City Rich in Historical Significance
Potosi: Going our Separate Ways
Potosi to past Vitichi: The 2 Musketeers
Vitichi to nr Ascanti: Snapped Guy Rope
Ascanti to Tupiza: Family Reunited
Rest Days in Tupiza: Relaxing before leaving Bolivia
Tupiza to Mojo: More Cyclists
Reflections: Bolivia


Mojo to La Quiaca: Into Argentina With Two Companions
La Quiaca to wild camp near Tres Cruces: Hope These Flat Roads Continue
Tres Cruces to Humahuaca: How many Cyclists ?
Humahuaca to Purmamarca: Goodbye to Joanna & Steph
Purmamarca to Yala: Enjoying the lazier days
Yala to Dique La Cienaga: Lakeside Campsite
Dique La Cienaga to Salta: Coincidences
Rest Days in Salta: Socializing in Argentina is More Tiring than Cycling
Salta to Coronel Moldes: Warming Up
Coronel Moldes to Alemania: Camping at an Old Train Station
Alemania to Los Castillos: What a Wonderful Day
Los Castillos to Cafayate: Best Night's Sleep
Relaxing in Cafayate: Great Camp Food Once More
Cafeyate to Ruinas de Quilmes: Out In The Midday Sun
Ruinas de Quilmes to Santa Maria: Bike repair day
Santa Maria to Campo Los Pozuelos: Singing Lines
Campo Los Pozuelos to San Fernando: Henry’s turn with the camera
San Fernando to Londres: Charlie behind the lens
Londres to San Blas: Desert
San Blas to Wild Camp before Chilecito: Vast
Wild Camp to Chilecito: Movie Stars
Rest days in Chilecito: Staying with Jorge and his family
Chilecito: A Great Experience with Jorge
Chilecito to Wild Camp near Pagancillo: Pippa's Birthday Treat
Pagancillo to Parque Nacional Talampaya: Fox, Armadillo etc
Parque Nacional Talampaya to San Agustin de Valle Fertil: Perfect Cycling Day
San Agustin de Valle Fertil to Astica: Taking it Easy amidst all the kindness
Astica to Marayes: Riding the Dragon’s Back
Marayes to Caucete: A Doozy of a Storm
Caucete to San Juan: Invitation to our first Parilla
San Juan to Media Agua: Suffocating December
Media Agua to Jocoli: The Boys' Maths Lesson
Jocoli to Mendoza: Big City
Mendoza to Colonia Suiza: Meeting up with Sabine, Dario and family
Days Off From the Bikes: Enjoying the Trombotto-Herfert Hospitality
Colonia Suiza to Tunuyan: Memories of France
Tunuyan to San Carlos: Pippa's perfect place
Working in San Carlos: Rescue Dogs
Cycling around San Carlos: Keeping in Trim
Merry Christmas: Our Second Yuletide Celebration of the Trip
San Carlos to Truck Stop on Ruta 143: Parting is Such Sweet Sorrow
Truck Stop on Ruta 143 to San Rafael: Mistake giving Pip's bike computer to Charlie
Days off in San Rafael: Valle Grande
San Rafael: Rafting and the Dakar
San Rafael to Police Station on Ruta 146: Where did those 2 weeks go ?
Police Station on Ruta 146 to Lay-By on Ruta 146: An educational oasis in the middle of nowhere
Lay-By on Ruta 146 to Behind Tree on Ruta 146: Skunked !
Behind a Tree on Ruta 146 to San Luis: Time for a shower
Days Off in San Luis: More TV and Getting Ready for Tour de San Luis
San Luis: Following the Tour of San Luis
San Luis to La Florida: Great to be back on the road.
La Florida to La Toma: Skinny Dipping
La Toma to Achiras: What is it with Argentinians and Camping?
Achiras to Rio Cuarto: The Power of TV
Rio Cuarto to Ucacha: 40km becomes 95km
Ucacha to Lobarde: Dead Snake Country
Lobarde to Corral de Bustos: Wetlands
Corral de Bustos to Arteaga: I think we got off lightly
Arteaga to Casilda: A Brush with the Law then a Night with the Bomberos
Casilda to Rosario: Into the great metropolis
Days off in Rosario: Catching up on Much Needed Sleep
Rosario to Victoria to Nogoya: Trying to Dodge the Storm
Nogoya to Balneario after Rosario de Tala: Mosquitoes the size of small dogs
Balneario after Rosario de Tala to Urdinarrain: Unsurpassed Hospitality
Urdinarrain to Pueblo Belgrano: Trying to find a place to stay in Partytown
Reflections: Argentina


Pueblo Belgrano to Fray Bentos: Border Crossing Days are always interesting
Resting Up in Fray Bentos: First Impressions
Fray Bentos: History Lesson
Fray Bentos to Mercedes: Bananagrams - the first thing we pack on a trip like this
Mercedes to Jose Enrique Rodo: Town Names like Jose Enrique Iglesias and Juan Luis Suarez ( made those up )
Jose Enrique Rodo to Ismael Cortinas: Uruguay continues to feel relaxed and chilled
Ismael Cortinas to San Jose de Mayo: The Magic is Still There
San Jose de Mayo to Canalones: Arcangel Rodriguez Acosta
Canalones to Soca: Henry's Knees
Soca to San Carlos: Further than we had anticipated
San Carlos to Rocha: Uruguay so far
Rocha to Castillos: Best to avoid carnival time
Castillos to Punta del Diablo: On the coast for the first time since May 2013
Punta del Diablo to Castillos: Retracing our Steps
Castillos to Aguas Dulces: Sweet Waters
Aguas Dulces to Valizas: Time for a Hike
Valizas to La Pedrera: Meeting up with an old friend
La Pedrera to Jose Ignacio: Time to leave this little paradise
Jose Ignacio to Maldonado: Long Night
Day off in Punta del Este: Rather posh
Maldonado to Las Flores: Chance meeting with like-minded people and another day in paradise
Las Flores to Montevideo: What a civilised way to enter a big city
Exploring Montevideo: Chilled Capital City
Montevideo to Libertad: The Uruguayan sense of humour
Libertad to Colonia Valdense: Zimmer frames and purple rinses
Colonia Valdense to Colonia del Sacramento: The final major cycling day ?
Days off in Colonia del Sacramento: Chilling before Buenos Aires
Reflections: Uruguay


Colonia del Sacramento to Buenos Aires: Ferry ride over the River Plate
Buenos Aires: Living in this cosmopolitan monster
Iguazu: Wow, Wower and Wowest
Last Day: Life is certainly like a box of chocolates

End Stuff

Lessons learned: Advice, tips and sone basic gear reviews

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"Life is like a box of chocolates" Copyright © 2012-2014 By Pippa Genner - (contact). All rights reserved.
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